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Waterproofing and Sound Deadening

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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 07:23 AM
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ColumbusJeep's Avatar
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Post Waterproofing and Sound Deadening

I recently replaced the rusted out floor of my Jeep. I wanted to waterproof it to at least delay having to do this again. While I was at it I decided to sound deaden the floors to improve the overall quality of the ride.

My solution:
Layer 1: Rustoleum Primer for Rusty Metal x2 coats
Layer 2: Rustoleum Paint x2 coats
Layer 3: Peel & Seal
Layer 4: Anti-Fatigue Mat

I was a little concerned about the peel & seal smelling since I've read people claiming that's a major issue with it. That said, I put it in and went over all of it with a heat gun and only noticed the absolute slightest of odor when I had got it so hot it the sticky side was bubbling. Not too worried about it getting that hot even when parked in the sun with the windows up.

The anti-fatigue mat worked out far better than I had hoped with the sound deadening. My only mistake was not getting enough to do the cargo area. As an added bonus it does a great job keeping heat out. One thing to keep in mind if you decide to go this route, buy this stuff by the foot and not in precut rolls. You will save about $1/ft by doing this.

I'm hoping to expand this project to cover the cargo area in the very near future. Seems that is where the bulk of my road noise is coming from now.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 08:48 AM
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Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Cool. What did you do on the other side of the floors?
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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For the time being, I just used the same combo of Rustoleum primer and paint. I'm planning to add frame stiffeners in the near future. When I do that I'll be addressing the entire bottom of the jeep. I'm thinking 3-5 coats of Herculiner but haven't settled on anything yet.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 12:09 PM
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I just did something similar. Got any pics of the install? I'm more of a visual person. :-)

Here's my run down...
1. Two coats of POR-15

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2. Two heavy coats of Herculiner

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3. EZ Cool Insulation (http://www.lobucrod.com/) There is a store on eBay that I bought it from.

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4. Carpet

On the underside I bought some Seam Sealer from AutoZone. Smeared that on the seams from the panels I welded in on the driver and passenger floor pan (welded them in on the inside... the POR-15 and Herculiner sealed those up). Once that dried I slathered on two thick coats of Herculiner.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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salad's Avatar
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Your first pic shows the stuff still there, but did you end off removing that seam sealer junk that the factory applied along the seam with the floor and inner rockers? I've noticed it doesn't bond to the metal very well. I've found quite a bit of good panels but rotten under the seam sealer. It may be more of a problem for water penetrating from the outside rather than in.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Your first pic shows the stuff still there, but did you end off removing that seam sealer junk that the factory applied along the seam with the floor and inner rockers? I've noticed it doesn't bond to the metal very well. I've found quite a bit of good panels but rotten under the seam sealer. It may be more of a problem for water penetrating from the outside rather than in.
I removed most of the seam sealer on the inside with a coarse grit (IIRC 40grit) sandpaper on a 7" grinder. Be careful when using a 7" grinder... I grazed some wires down by the kick panel and had to solder them back together. Doh!

The metal under the seam sealer on my 2001 Cherokee was solid. Hence why I removed it and welded to it.

Here are some pics of the panels welded in. Its kinda hard to see but you can kinda make out the missing factory seam sealer along the corners. These pictures were after I roughed up the metal in preparation for the POR-15.

Drivers Side
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Passenger Side
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Now... concerning the aluminum panels that are glued down (You can see the two in the back and the one on the tranny tunnel in the first pic)... POR-15 doesn't like to stick to aluminum (I think I read that somewhere... and I tested a spot on the passenger side of the tranny tunnel). But the Herculiner stuck to it just fine. I did remove the two aluminum panels that were glued down on the driver and passenger floor pan because I needed to weld close to it. Best thing to remove those is a razor blade scraper. Then some MEK to clean up any sticky residue. Just make sure to use a respirator with an organic filter when using MEK. That stuff goes straight to your head.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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Sorry no pictures of my setup. I didn't think to take them until I was finishing up the installation of the center console. At that point I was just happy to have it back together and wasn't motivated to go back and take pictures.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 03:28 PM
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Ah the aluminum foil backed sticky crap. That I found was excellent rust proofing! It's there for heat/sound insulation over the trans, muffler, and cat. Not necessary if you do the whole floor
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