I changed mine out with a brass barbed fitting and heater hose. Worked great for a couple years. I replaced it with the OEM tube when I did the water pump.

 

So, my lazy *** wanted to replace this tube without removing the water pump and I can confirm that it is indeed possible if you make a modified inlet tube or brass barb/nipple of sorts. In my case, I had a spare that I cut in pictures below. Step 1 was to unclamp the heater hoses, upper radiator hose, and remove the thermostat housing. Step 2 was to cut the old tube off (VERY VERY VERRRRRRRRY CAREFULLY, as to not nick the serpentine belt) with a dremel/cutting wheel. Then I was able to slip a size 19(I think) wrench over it and slowly work it off while moving the wrench annoyingly around the clutch fan(pictured below). Step 3 was to cut a spare OEM inlet tube I had($10 on amazon) down into just the straight section. It was already threaded correctly for the inlet hole in the water pump and was still able to get a wrench over it to tighten it down as the modified replacement to the stock inlet tube. Although it is a bit rough, I did a fair amount of hand filing and sanding to the newly cut edge before installing. Step 4, cut custom length for 5/8 heater hoser to replace old stock lower heater hose and clamp to the newly shortened/modified inlet tube that I just cut and filed. Also put teflon tape on the threads of the newly cut tube before re-installing in the water pump.

Sidenote: Although not pictured below, I did end up cleaning the thermostat housing and the mating surface on the engine with a crimped brushwheel on a drill on medium/low. I also drilled a tiny bleed hole in top of new thermostat and installed with a tiny bit of RTV for the thermostat to stick into the groove or race of the engine block. The thermostat has a tendency to slip out of that groove it sits in when re-installing the housing, so the RTV keeps it in place ahead of time. Also, a mechanic friend told me to put rtv on the lower screw of the thermostat housing as these are known to leak and be a passageway for leaking coolant. Also replaced stock radiator with aluminum 3 row, new upper and lower hose, thermostat housing, and temperature sensor. LOTS of flushing and burping of the entire coolant system. Last thought here is that I likely would replace the water pump if I was to do this again, but I am glad I got the old corroded original inlet tube out of there. Thing was rusty orange on the outside AND inside. badly corroded. Either way, the mod to this tube is super solid and should last for a long time.


after cutting the old corroded inlet tube off with a dremel

re-installing the new inlet tube that was custom cut with a dremel and filed. Added teflon tape on the threads.

reinstalling custom measured and cut 5/8 inch heater hose

finished install of modified inlet tube and lower heater hose with clamp. (I did go on to install a new thermostat and gasket after this).


where I roughly cut the replacement OEM inlet tube from Amazon

 

Or this:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/69935

 

It's a standard pipe thread. When mine rotted out, I just used a short 3" galvanized pipe nipple that I had on hand and the coolant hose slipped over it snugly with a hose clamp.

 

So I want to thank you for posting this.
I just did my water pump, new black tube, etc a couple months ago.
I used the position of the black tube on the old water pump to set up the new one up on the new pump.
Or so I had thought.
My dumb *** did not realize how out of position I was until I had everything done and started hooking up the hoses.
I am literally a hair away from the valve cover.
There is a good chance that if I want to remove my valve cover at some point that it will not clear the tube.
Meaning I might have to remove the water pump.
And since I had let the thread sealant sit for a day to cure did not want to try and re-position it with a wrench.
If and when that day comes maybe I can cut the tube on the pump like you did.
Rather buy new hose then remove it just to get the valve cover off. LOL.

 

This is definitely preferable to my mod, but I already had the spare inlet tube to cut to size. ...saved my cheap *** $2 from going to the LHS, lol. Same idea, though having the barbed nipple end would be some extra peace of mind. I just made sure to crank down on my clamp.

 

Your set up should be fine. If you want some extra peace of mind and if there is room put another clamp on in the opposite direction. I went with the brass fitting to avoid the rust issue of the inlet tube.

 

Was there enough room to cut the inlet and remove with a socket without having to take anything off?