Ok so i just got home from working on the jeep, let me catch you guys up where im at, i noticed i had a leak like right behind the warerpump of antifreeze so i put a new waterpump on it hoping it was it and drove it day or two and notice still leaking there.

So today i spent all day changing the headgasket, intake gasket, new thermostat and gasket, with new fluids (oil/antifreeze) new spark plugs. So i just got done with it like a hour ago and i drove home about 20 miles from my dads. I get home to check it out and sure enough when i got home water/antifreeze was boiling/blowing back into my reserve. even leaking some out onto ground. the spot i notice leaking first time looks dry( but hell should be has brand new head gasket on it)

I need to know what to do next i dont want to drive it with it getting that hot i dont want to blow out another head gasket.. it seems to run great after first few mins starting it up for about 15 mins or so then started acting like was sluggish alittle sometimes.

 

Did I miss not replacing the radiator and rad cap and fan clutch?

 

I havent replaced any of those things, the electric fan is kicking on when it should around 218 to 220 whatever it is set at. my radiator cap looks pretty ****ty but i havent replaced it. and radiator what would cause radiator to cause that?

 

Did you burp the cooling system?

 

No do you think could be jammed up somewhere?

 

radiator cap looks pretty ****ty most likely cant hold pressure that would explain bubbleing in over flow bottle

 

I hope your right getting new one tommorrow, tired of messing with jeep just want to drive it lol

 

Did you fill the system to the top while to car was cold or warm?
If you have too much coolant in the system it will push it back into the puke can. Which is where the excess is SUPPOSE to accumulate.

 

to a certain point correct

 

was cold i think but it was bubbling when i got home inside the puke can lol

 

once the pressure of the cap is overcome if cap is no good this will happen to early

 

had that problem in my trans am changed the radiator cap and all was well

 

A radiator pressure cap is designed to maintain pressure in the cooling system at a certain maximum pressure.

If the cap should fail, the engine can easily overheat. The radiator cap is often overlooked when troubleshooting. A pressure test of the radiator cap is a quick way to tell if the cap is doing its job. It should be able to hold its rated pressure for two minutes.

Since radiator caps are quite inexpensive, ($5.00??) I would recommend replacing it every 3 years or 36,000 miles, just for added insurance. Make absolutely sure that you replace it with one that is designed for your vehicle.

16 pound is the correct application for the 4.0 Get one WITHOUT a release lever as it isn't needed, and is just one more point where the cap can fail in the future.

And if that doesn't resolve your problem, consider getting a new radiator in there; (and fan clutch while you're at it) that is about all that is left.....

 

Well now its not driveable, leaking same area it was put new rad cap on it and turned it on smokes like crazy, and leaking out of rad cap also. Guess it needs a new head, probably try to sell it now.

 

ive heard of one certain bolt being two long for a water pump bolt hole being tightened down and cracking thru the cyl wall in cyl numger one causing compression to be exhausted into cooling sysyem