Rambo9

So just finished getting the head on my 96 xj worked over had a couple valve seats way out of wack. Get it all back together put a 180 degree tstat in new distributor new wires new plugs cleaned the intake has new injectors just put a map and tps on today. Anyways the Jeep used to run just a touch warm for me hence the 180' stat. Replaced the temp sending unit when I got the head on. Now the gauge reads around 230 or so and I know it's not that hot. Heck the heat doesn't put out anywhere close to that good. I've seen a few other threads on here about issues with autozone sending units just figured I'd try and put it out there. I know it's not running that hot. I'll post back soon as I get a sending unit from napa

toasterknight

Putting a cooler thermostat in will not lower the running temp as all properly working thermostats will be open long before operating temp. All you are doing is causing the engine to burn more fuel trying to get the temp to 210 and keep it there.

Rambo9

A 180' thermostat will open before a 195 degree thermostat allowing more water to flow faster than a 195 degree Stat. Yes it's gonna still probably get close to 210 but it's gonna take longer. And correct me if I'm wrong but the system should be in closed loop awhile before 210 anyways. Aka fueling off of sensors and not base line maps

madmanmarty

Rambo,just replaced mine.
Got jeep factory only sensors.

toasterknight

In closed loop it will still add fuel to raise temps as the engine is more efficient at the operating temps.

Rambo9

I hear ya there bud I'll see what the stealership wants near me. I'm really happy the tps and map fixed the miss/hesitation. It felt almost like the Trans slipping had me worried.

Rambo9

Are we sure the designated operating temp is 210 though? Not trying to agrue. But the 180 thermostat will only cause the engine to take longer to hit 210. It will still hit 210 no problem that's for sure. Just in the mud and high rpm with low to no wind moving over the radiator I prefer for more water to be flowing sooner.

Turbo X_J

Are you sure you got the sensor for the gauge and not the switch for the dash lamp?
btw if the heater core is jammed up, the radiator / entire cooling system probably is too.

toasterknight

I am 100% sure that is the operating temp. It's been the standard operating temp for cars for years. Mine varies from 210-215 under normal conditions using an actual gauge not the dash gauge. The electric fan comes on at 217. My dad's JK will vary from 210-230 depending on conditions. His electric doesn't come on till stupid high 240 I believe.

ehall

210 is normal. With a 195 stat, I run around 200 on the highway, and about 215 at a stop light.

I use Standard brand from rockauto.com or dealer parts for my jeep sensors and such

Rambo9

Yes I have the sensor. The gauge makes a full sweep it's just sitting higher than it should be. And the heater core seems to be flowing fine had no problem getting water out of the line connecting to the thermostat housing.
I'll get some acurate readings at work tomorrow. And decide my plan of action from there

Turbo X_J

Just wondering, if you know it's not running "that hot" then why worry about it? When warmed up mine sits at 210°, 98% of the time. This time of year I have heat to the point of almost melting the rubber off my shoes.

Rambo9

I think I lost you bud. What I'm trying to say is the computer will continue to send extra fuel until what temp? I don't believe it's 210 then it goes into closed loop mode but if I'm wrong hey I'm wrong. Might just be me used to diesels. Anything over 200 in my Cummins under normal conditions is just wrong even with the smarty all the way up. I do still believe the gauge is off though as before it would run 200 to 210 all day just fine. Now with the new 180 Stat fresh coolant and new head gasket the gauge hangs between 215 and 230 or so. Don't get me wrong I could have faulty hard parts but I honestly believe it's in the sensor. Just based off the temp of the heat coming out of the vents it's not 230 and I can stand over the engine running and not melt my face

Rambo9

Turbo. I'd really just like to get the gauge working right gets the thought out of my head and if it ever does get hot I'll know it. I could put an aftermarket gauge in but why if I can get the stock one working

toasterknight

It has nothing to do with closed loop vs open loop. In closed loop it takes I to account the iat and coolant temp to control the mixture and if the coolant temp is low it will add fuel to compensate.