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Voltage Drop Question??

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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #16  
BigVaz's Avatar
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From: Kenosha, Wi
Year: 2000
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Ok, so what else would cause the voltage to drop if the battery seems fine? (since it starts up with no hesitiation) Also assuming the Alt. is fine?

I guess I don't understand what a few of you are thinking the issue is?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #17  
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From: Laredo Texas
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Well if you want to know for sure you should do what i did.I went to autozone and a guy there told me that if i wasnt sure it was the alt. I can just go back and reutrn it. and to my luck it was my alt. this was the thread i made the day it happened to me: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/damn-103780/
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #18  
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From: Kenosha, Wi
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Im going to hit autozone on the way home. I called & they said they'll check the Bat, Starter & Alt in that order.

So we'll see...
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #19  
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From: Kenosha, Wi
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So last night I pulled the Alt & took it to Autozone. It screamed like a pig on the tester & failed with flying colors!

So i was happy to know exactly what the problem was.

Wrenching time for removal of old & new install was 40mins... Not bad for the 1st alternator i've ever done... *Patting my own back*
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #20  
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Great Job! and happy to see it was the alt.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #21  
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From: Southern Cali
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Engine: 2.5L turbo, 4.0L tb swap, ported head ect
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Originally Posted by BigVaz
So i was heading to work today & my voltage dropped completely. When I got to work I popped the hood & disconnected the negative battery terminal & the motor instantly died.

Im not a mechanic, but im assuming its the alternator that needs replacing? Over the last couple days I was getting a faint, but weird hum out of the engine bay too? Guessing that had something to do with it too...

Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks!
your supposed to disconnect the positive battery cable because the alternator should pump enough voltage to keep it running
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:04 PM
  #22  
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You told the clue early on - the humming noise - one of the alternator diodes was shorted. That's why it screamed in the tester too.
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