As an option, for $4 US a set link bushings are available here: http://teamcherokee.com/search.php?s...query=52001132 There will be shipping on that so check out what else they might have that you need. This can be a good source for some OE and replacement parts at good prices.

Regarding shocks I don’t think it is worth trying to remove the lower shock bushings to replace them. I tried once just to see if the old ones would come out and quickly abandoned that. You can get decent OE type shocks such as Monroe for less than you might think, as little as $50 and certainly less than $100 US for a front set. They will be fine until you decide on a complete suspension update in the future.

Regarding suspension replacement there are lots of options and opinions out there that cover a range of needs. There is a section on this forum dedicated to suspension. It depends on what you want to achieve and how much you want to spend. I suggest being realistic in how you intend to use your Jeep for 90% of the time you drive it and save money for the best available for your actual application. It is a fair amount of work to replace everything, especially for a Jeep that has rust due to salt exposure. You can get OE plus type springs and shocks for a very reasonable investment that will be fine for a daily driver. For my red ’91 XJ I am working on now I have ordered the Old Man Emu 2.5” Ultimate Hybrid kit from DPG Off Road that includes most everything needed. Not inexpensive but excellent ride and I don’t want a high lift or need extreme off road capability. I am replacing an awful lift done on this one a couple of owners back. The 4.5” front lift was not done correctly, screwing up the front geometry which likely contributed to destruction of bushings (shock bushings most totally gone). The rear add a leaf and extended rear shackle (avoid these!) just overly stressed the original rear leaf springs and caused them to sag further.

Tip: I suggest that before you begin to replace shocks or other suspension parts apply penetrating fluid to the bolt threads several times beginning a week or two before. Wire brush any accessible threads to remove crusty rust. Work stubborn fasteners a quarter turn back and forth. This reduces the chance of breaking a bolt and lots of additional work.

 

Very concise info write up! Thank you. I am 100% on the same page as you - my Jeep's main purpose is rugged daily driver, that can take me off road to the hidden back lakes for fishing and some camping. Intense Canadian cottage roads, logging roads, some small obstacles to traverse, which in my mind, won't need more than a 2.5" lift ever. Which is my end goal. A 2.5" lift, possibly the necessary trans-case blocks to address the drive line vibration issues/fix the geo of the drive line. But you're right. I have no need for a 4.5" lift, nor do I want to look like some ridiculous pavement-cowboy, driving around town in a monster truck haha.

I was looking at the Monroe shocks on amazon (here in Canada) and they're $35 a piece CAD. Very affordable and probably much better than what's in my 1999 XJ right now, given their looks and bounce. I may just make it one big order and go for it (the whole front end "clean up").

As for penetrating oil - way ahead of you. When I first bought it weeks ago, I had to do the front brakes. While the wheels were off, every single nut and bolt got hit with high-performance-penetrant, and then a good dose of penetrating oil. I also have a very adjsutable small pocket torch I have used before to loosen up rust and get bolts free. Living in Canada, and having owned many 20+ year old vehicles, you learn very quickly that oil + heat are your friends!

But thanks for the very good and very needed reminder of "Just make sure you realistically approach it, and it'll save you money". WAY too often, I see Jeep guys (and that includes me) get too excited to start going over the top. I was legit eyeballing a rear weld-on, coil spring conversion for XJ's yesterday, and my father had to shake me out of it hahah. "You don't even have bushings yet and you don't know if you'll keep this specific XJ yet!' - he made a good point.

 

Update: Parts ordered on Amazon - Moog 26mm bar bushing (frame mount ones) and the sway bar links with Bushings. $44 CAD total. I await for the order to ship, but in the mean time all the bolts got a blast of penetrant. I have a feeling I'll be using the torch to heat the bolts, either way!

Will let you guys know if you were right for the size haha If not, you're all refunding me! (just kidding)

Thanks for all the input!

 

If you find that your stabilizer bar is too rusted and gives you problems here is a deal on a new OE one. Never mind. It's 28mm. Rock Auto shows the Dorman replacement and lists the OEM # below.

OE FRONT SWAY BAR PART# 52087859

http://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-b...-xj-1994-2001/

 

Holy moly that's a deal! Sadly, I am in Canada, so shipping would be insane. But wow.... $32 USD bucks for a new bar. The local junkers want $17 CAD for a used one.

 

False alarm! See my edited post above.

 

I mean, I could always upgrade to a 28mm! haha

 

If my 26mm bar was no count I'd definitely be going 28mm. Heck of deal on that bar.

 

Guess I have a reason to make a larger State-side order to a PO box and pick it all up at once. I'm only 1.2 hours away from the border

 

That'll work.

 

I can't be sure about this but I came across something in internet land that makes me think that the bigger sway bars
might be part of the trailer package I believe that could be ordered for an XJ.
The tranny cooler, hitch, etc.

 

I just wanted to thank everyone that contributed and answered. Ordered the Moog K3171 26mm thermoplastic bushings and the AC Delco links and bushings. Everything fit perfectly and the 26mm were the right ones to get, as when I received them, right inside the bushing, they had "25-1/2mm" printed on them. So even a tad closer to what I wanted. Snug and good fit, no more "RACKETY CLACKETY" when I drive haha

Thanks again!

Until next time - or the next question.

 

Possibly true and would make sense, but also, it was trim package, according to reading I did. Apparently the SPORT had 28mm, the Classic and Country had the 25mm. (or something like that. Mine's classic, I went with 26mm bushings, they arrived marked as 25-1/2mm, and they're perfect!)

 

I had to do some work to get the JK take-off shocks (I got a great deal on a 500 mile set of red rubicons) and I used a combination of a bench vise and grade 8 hardware/washers and sockets to remove the inner metal sleeve out of the new-to-me shocks. Anti-seize was invaluable as a lubricant to get the bar pins through once the original inner sleeves were out.

If you're trying to get the rubber out, you can use the standard method for pressing bushings in/out - big receiving end, proper size pushing end and a C clamp style pressing tool (I like a ball joint press size personally since I tend to bend c-clamps any time I try to use them for anything serious - a big bench vise works too). Or, if you don't care about the old rubber bushing, you can do what I just did with my axle side control arm bushings - take a drill and drill out the rubber. This should be super easy if the shock is out of the vehicle and works really well.

 

Thanks for that write up! Appreciate the tips I may end up going with just new shocks all around, but if they're still good, bushings for sure need to get done, and I'll bear your advice in mind