MS Fowler

I have driven 4WD systems by GM aNd Ford. This is my first experience with a Jeep. My (company) vehicle is a 1999 Cherokee, 4.0 liter auto. There is no Owner's Manual. An on-line manual would be very helpful, ( I actually read them!).

Like I said, these are BASIC questions. I see many of you are serioulsy into rock crawling and off-roading, I just want to drive the Jeep for my work.

Transfer Case---The positions I see are:
2WD, Part time, Full Time, Neutral, Low.
From the color coding on the dash indicator lights, and from my driving experience, the Part Time ( Yellow light) is the more agressive setting, as it seems to completely lock the front and rear. I experience a lot of crabbing if I try sharp turns in this position. The Full Time ( Green Light) seems to allow some Front-to-rear differential action.
Is this correct?
So then, I should use 2WD for most dry road driving, and Full Time for mixed snow and wet and dry roads. Part time should be used ONLY for unplowed roads with deep snow, or mud.
Again, is this correct?

There are no manual hubs to free-wheel, or lock the front axle. Are there automatic hubs, or are they always engaged?
Would there be a benefit in reduced running costs in installing manual hubs?

How can I tell if the front and/or rear axles are open, or limited slip?
Does the VIN indicate anything helpful?
VIN: 1J4FF68S7XL652344

You all were helpful with diagnosong my bad engine, and in swapping in another 4.0 liter. That is all done, and except for a (probably exhaust) buzz, it runs great. The short WB does take a little getting used to.

housew

you got all the transfercase settings and when to use them correct.

in a 99 there is no disconnect in the axle, and they are not automatic hubs, they are always engaged. There are kits to put manual hubs in but they are very pricey. you probably won't notice a difference in mpg but your u-joints wouldn't wear as quickly, not really worth it in my opinnion and probably jeeps opinion since they didn't put them on.

you could only have limited slip in the back from the factory, to test, leave it in park, jack the back up so both rear tires are off the ground, attempt to turn a wheel. if it goes easy and the other wheel spins opposite you don't have one, if it requires a lot of force you do.

Morat

I found the original sticker in the glovebox which warns you about the dangers of jacking up a vehicle with an LSD, this is a pretty good indication. I don't think they were all that common though, so don't be dissapointed. I drove my brother in law's ZJ in deep snow this year and it did just fine with open diffs.

fantic238

You have the NP 242 trasfer case that has a built in lockable differential.
2WD: rear wheel drive, front axle shafts and drive shaft are dragged by the front wheels but no power to them.
4WD PT: four wheel drive, high range. Central differential is locked ad power is transmitted 50/50 to the two axles, to use only on slippery surfaces.
4WD FT: four wheel drive, high range. Central differential is unlocked and power is transmitted more to the rear axle than the front, can be used on any surface.
N: neutral, no power to the wheels
4WD LO: four wheel drive, low range. Central diff is locked as in the part time mode. To use only on very slippery surfaces.

MS Fowler

OK, THANKS to all.
Maybe there should be a place for information like this so neophytes (like me) can easily access it, and you won't have repeated threads on the same info.

Thanks, again.

cherokeefreak

There is you just have to do some looking on here or naxja and I sure you will find any info you need.

MS Fowler

I tried. I use the search function a lot as I see no reason to burden the forum with questions that have been discussed, already.
Sometimes, the difficulty is in coming up with the search terms that work.
A sticky of "beginner information" might put it all in one place.