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Valve Cover Torque Spec Help

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Old May 3, 2010 | 08:35 PM
  #1  
flexin91xj's Avatar
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From: Westminster Colorado
Year: 1991 (2-door)
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Engine: 4.0L
Default Valve Cover Torque Spec Help

I'm replacing the valve cover gasket on my '91 and having trouble finding the torque specs for the valve cover bolts.
Does anyone know these specs?
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Old May 3, 2010 | 10:37 PM
  #2  
SlapHappy's Avatar
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From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Year: 1991
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55 in-lbs if a perma-gasket. 23 if cork I believe.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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for 91' it is 55
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Old May 4, 2010 | 01:46 AM
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Year: 1988
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http://www.kelleyswip.com/torque.html

If I don't have your year listed, I've got something close! I'm still accumulating data...
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Old May 4, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #5  
flexin91xj's Avatar
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^^5-90^^ Thanks for that info and great work! Thats the most complete set of data Ive seen so far and yes, my year was on there.
Another question...
Should I use some blue loc tight on the bolts? When I went to remove the bolts, a majority of them were loose. I had changed the gasket almost 5 years ago and I know I over tightened them cause I wasnt aware the importance of correct torque specs back then.

Last edited by flexin91xj; May 4, 2010 at 11:35 AM.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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Year: 1995
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Originally Posted by flexin91xj
^^5-90^^ Thanks for that info and great work! Thats the most complete set of data Ive seen so far and yes, my year was on there.
Another question...
Should I use some blue loc tight on the bolts? When I went to remove the bolts, a majority of them were loose. I had changed the gasket almost 5 years ago and I know I over tightened them cause I wasnt aware the importance of correct torque specs back then.

Eh. Blue loc. You could. If the threads have been damaged due to over torquing I would go with red if you can accually get to the recommended torque. If you really want to get fancy you could buy lock wire bolts and then lock wire them together. If your not sure what that is just google it. I'm sure some aircraft nerd posted it somewhere. Not only does it look really cool but will hold better than loctite. But it is alot of work
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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^^^ Arent the lock wire bolts the ones where wire feeds through each bolt head and makes it impossible for them to loosen? I think I saw these on powerblock tv.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #8  
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Year: 1988
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Originally Posted by flexin91xj
^^5-90^^ Thanks for that info and great work! Thats the most complete set of data Ive seen so far and yes, my year was on there.
Another question...
Should I use some blue loc tight on the bolts? When I went to remove the bolts, a majority of them were loose. I had changed the gasket almost 5 years ago and I know I over tightened them cause I wasnt aware the importance of correct torque specs back then.
LocTite #222, #242, or RTV would all work. As would clear nail polish (but I'll usually use that on machine screws #6 or smaller.)

Considering they're small screws (1/4"-20) and low torque (~7 pound-feet) going with LocTite #222 (or equivalent) is the option I'll typically take. Then again, I do keep several useful little goodies like that about - I work on pretty much everything...

LocTite #222, 242, 271, 272, 277, & 545
RTV Black & Copper
White & clear nail polish (clear for a very small screw threadlocker - typically on firearms - and white for bringing out timing marks, alignment marks, and witness marks.)
Railroad Crayons (quick-and-dirty filling of marks for visibility)
A range of Tempil sticks (for monitoring temperatures when working with high heat)

You get the idea.
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