Guess I will be the odd ball lol. I replaced the VC gasket on my rig with a cork fel-pro unit with some rtv on both sides. Been just fine. Main thing is check the bolts. I don't know if it is the rtv or cork, but it seems like the bolts like to wiggle finger loose.

WITH THAT SAID, when I put my new VC on with proper baffle mod (thanks Cruiser!) and new paint, I will spring for the better gasket. Cleaning the rtv sucks.

 

I replaced my VC gasket yesterday. I bought the blue fel pro one everyone says is the best option. I just wanted to post here with a list of tools I used to get the job done in hopes that it may help someone else. I had to run to a tool store for a few things mid job and I hope this prevents someone else from having to do that.

Tools I used:
3/8 ratchet
11mm socket (deep well) for VC bolts and studs
10mm socket for throttle cable bracket. (3 bolts)
6" wobble extension
Universal ratchet joint (this is a must)
Phillips screw driver (for hose clamp on thermostat hose)

The VC bolt in the very back (closest to fire wall) is a tight squeeze, but the universal ratchet joint and wobble extension made it a breeze to remove and retighten.

Whoever replaced the VC gasket before me clearly didn't have the proper tools to tighten that bolt down because it was ridiculously loose.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone.




Felpro steel core reusable gasket.






Universal ratchet joint (aka socket swivel) This will save you time, and stress replacing your VC gasket. Get one and get the job over with.

 

P.s. I saw this on another thread regarding VCG replacement and it really helped. Not all of the bolts are the same, some are studs, so sticking them into a piece of cardboard keeps track of where they came from. Great idea.

 

i found a rubber with steel on ebay from omni-ada i believe is the company for $25. After i clean head n valve cover i should just use the gasket and no silicone correct?

 

glad i seen this. I saved image as insurance.
Good tech info job you did

 

Sorry for the delayed reply. Glad I could help.

 

Something else to consider is the rubber grommets that fit in the bolts holes on the cover. I can't remember if the gaskets typically come with these or not, but if they've never been replaced there's a decent chance they need to be. I wasn't super delicate with those last time I put the VC back on and now I've got a bit of a leak from one of those, haven't gotten around to fixing yet.

 

Do any of you guys torq the bolts down ?

 

That's correct.

If you already bought it, use it. It's not bad.

But the Fel-Pro is the best, and it's about the same price.

 

I follow the specified torque pattern, but go by feel. I think the order is important, so you don't twist things, but the actual pressure isn't critical on a valve cover, IMO.

 

I avoid the cork gaskets like the plague. Bought the blue Felpro for my 97. Part #VS50458R. New grommets were included. Pop those in before the metal sleeves. Torque the bolts in a circular pattern, starting from the center outward, in increments, to avoid warping the VC. Mine called for 85 inch pounds, but i stopped at 60.

If your breather grommets have hardened, replace those, too. And clean the CCV out while you are at it.

 

Worked on cars as a hobby all my life, not a professional, but I always find it crazy when someone tells me their engine is leaking oil and then I ask them if they had pulled the cover or pan and put on a new gasket and torqued it down. Just my way of doing things I guess, torque wrenches from China will get you close enough if you are on a budget.