Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question
#1
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question
Morning Gents!
Quick question. I just about have my valve cover back on the head to finish my repaint/gasket change.
Do the baffles that bolt under the CCV elbow holes require a gasket of any sort? Or does tightening provide a sufficient seal? If a gasket is needed, will high temp black rtv suffice?
Thanks!
Quick question. I just about have my valve cover back on the head to finish my repaint/gasket change.
Do the baffles that bolt under the CCV elbow holes require a gasket of any sort? Or does tightening provide a sufficient seal? If a gasket is needed, will high temp black rtv suffice?
Thanks!
#2
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Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
No gasket required under the cover breather tubes. Insure there is a hole about half way up those internal breather tube or drill a 3/8 to 1/2 dia hole, that will reduce oil vapour when the cover breathes. Insure your reed valves, little metal flappers on top of the internal breather tubes, are in place, they will flex up with crankcase pressure, they also help to knock down the oil mist.
I have high mileage and high crankcase pressure, so I run the fumes thru a cannister with screen, intinded and a water systems screen, can get at plumbing hardware store, and this coalesces a lot of oil and water vapour from my engine prior to the vapours continuing on to foul my air filter during recirculation.
I don't run the vapours direct back into my intake manifold, both vent ports off the cover run thru my cobbled recovery system.
For Paint, u can clean your cover with oven cleaner to really remove the crud. I use an engine heat paint, lots of colours, and it takes the heat and harsh environment under the hood.
I heat silcon the gasket to the cover and antiseize the underside of the gasket so it won't bond to the cylinder head for future service. The synthetic rubber gaskets last longer than the cork but either works. Don't overtighten 40-50 in lb will do well, check it and retorque same within a week, then check with each oil change thereafter.
good luck!
I have high mileage and high crankcase pressure, so I run the fumes thru a cannister with screen, intinded and a water systems screen, can get at plumbing hardware store, and this coalesces a lot of oil and water vapour from my engine prior to the vapours continuing on to foul my air filter during recirculation.
I don't run the vapours direct back into my intake manifold, both vent ports off the cover run thru my cobbled recovery system.
For Paint, u can clean your cover with oven cleaner to really remove the crud. I use an engine heat paint, lots of colours, and it takes the heat and harsh environment under the hood.
I heat silcon the gasket to the cover and antiseize the underside of the gasket so it won't bond to the cylinder head for future service. The synthetic rubber gaskets last longer than the cork but either works. Don't overtighten 40-50 in lb will do well, check it and retorque same within a week, then check with each oil change thereafter.
good luck!
#3
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fauquier County, Virginia
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
13 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
No gasket required under the cover breather tubes. Insure there is a hole about half way up those internal breather tube or drill a 3/8 to 1/2 dia hole, that will reduce oil vapour when the cover breathes. Insure your reed valves, little metal flappers on top of the internal breather tubes, are in place, they will flex up with crankcase pressure, they also help to knock down the oil mist.
I have high mileage and high crankcase pressure, so I run the fumes thru a cannister with screen, intinded and a water systems screen, can get at plumbing hardware store, and this coalesces a lot of oil and water vapour from my engine prior to the vapours continuing on to foul my air filter during recirculation.
I don't run the vapours direct back into my intake manifold, both vent ports off the cover run thru my cobbled recovery system.
For Paint, u can clean your cover with oven cleaner to really remove the crud. I use an engine heat paint, lots of colours, and it takes the heat and harsh environment under the hood.
I heat silcon the gasket to the cover and antiseize the underside of the gasket so it won't bond to the cylinder head for future service. The synthetic rubber gaskets last longer than the cork but either works. Don't overtighten 40-50 in lb will do well, check it and retorque same within a week, then check with each oil change thereafter.
good luck!
I have high mileage and high crankcase pressure, so I run the fumes thru a cannister with screen, intinded and a water systems screen, can get at plumbing hardware store, and this coalesces a lot of oil and water vapour from my engine prior to the vapours continuing on to foul my air filter during recirculation.
I don't run the vapours direct back into my intake manifold, both vent ports off the cover run thru my cobbled recovery system.
For Paint, u can clean your cover with oven cleaner to really remove the crud. I use an engine heat paint, lots of colours, and it takes the heat and harsh environment under the hood.
I heat silcon the gasket to the cover and antiseize the underside of the gasket so it won't bond to the cylinder head for future service. The synthetic rubber gaskets last longer than the cork but either works. Don't overtighten 40-50 in lb will do well, check it and retorque same within a week, then check with each oil change thereafter.
good luck!
Thanks again!
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