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Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question

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Old 04-13-2013, 08:23 AM
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Default Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question

Morning Gents!


Quick question. I just about have my valve cover back on the head to finish my repaint/gasket change.

Do the baffles that bolt under the CCV elbow holes require a gasket of any sort? Or does tightening provide a sufficient seal? If a gasket is needed, will high temp black rtv suffice?

Thanks!
Old 04-13-2013, 10:48 AM
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No gasket required under the cover breather tubes. Insure there is a hole about half way up those internal breather tube or drill a 3/8 to 1/2 dia hole, that will reduce oil vapour when the cover breathes. Insure your reed valves, little metal flappers on top of the internal breather tubes, are in place, they will flex up with crankcase pressure, they also help to knock down the oil mist.
I have high mileage and high crankcase pressure, so I run the fumes thru a cannister with screen, intinded and a water systems screen, can get at plumbing hardware store, and this coalesces a lot of oil and water vapour from my engine prior to the vapours continuing on to foul my air filter during recirculation.
I don't run the vapours direct back into my intake manifold, both vent ports off the cover run thru my cobbled recovery system.
For Paint, u can clean your cover with oven cleaner to really remove the crud. I use an engine heat paint, lots of colours, and it takes the heat and harsh environment under the hood.
I heat silcon the gasket to the cover and antiseize the underside of the gasket so it won't bond to the cylinder head for future service. The synthetic rubber gaskets last longer than the cork but either works. Don't overtighten 40-50 in lb will do well, check it and retorque same within a week, then check with each oil change thereafter.
good luck!
Attached Thumbnails Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question-img_2724.jpg   Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question-img_2725.jpg   Valve Cover CCV Baffle Question-img_2729.jpg  
Old 04-13-2013, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by peep
No gasket required under the cover breather tubes. Insure there is a hole about half way up those internal breather tube or drill a 3/8 to 1/2 dia hole, that will reduce oil vapour when the cover breathes. Insure your reed valves, little metal flappers on top of the internal breather tubes, are in place, they will flex up with crankcase pressure, they also help to knock down the oil mist.
I have high mileage and high crankcase pressure, so I run the fumes thru a cannister with screen, intinded and a water systems screen, can get at plumbing hardware store, and this coalesces a lot of oil and water vapour from my engine prior to the vapours continuing on to foul my air filter during recirculation.
I don't run the vapours direct back into my intake manifold, both vent ports off the cover run thru my cobbled recovery system.
For Paint, u can clean your cover with oven cleaner to really remove the crud. I use an engine heat paint, lots of colours, and it takes the heat and harsh environment under the hood.
I heat silcon the gasket to the cover and antiseize the underside of the gasket so it won't bond to the cylinder head for future service. The synthetic rubber gaskets last longer than the cork but either works. Don't overtighten 40-50 in lb will do well, check it and retorque same within a week, then check with each oil change thereafter.
good luck!
Huge huge thanks and VERY informative! Already have mine painted (though not quite as nicely shining as yours.. Your prep looks much better than mine). The baffles already have the 3/8-1/2" hole up from the bottom opening with those flex plates in place between the baffle and cover. So far replacing the elbows last time as well as cleaning the baffles last time the cover was off has eliminated my old "oily air filter" issue. I like the catch canister idea for the manifold return line though...

Thanks again!
Old 04-13-2013, 11:01 AM
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no prob, love to see a pic of how yours is turning out.
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