Whats the easiest way to remove the upper control arm bushings.

 

buy new control arms...

Other then that a C-Clamp and vice or find a shop that has a bushing press..

 

the upper control arm bushings are on the axle itself.

 

Actually the control arm bushings should be on the CA itself but mounted to the front axle and to the frame. So I am a touch confused here. If you want to change the UCO bushings you have to remove the UCA fron the axle and frame use a press to get then out then a press to put new ones in at least on factory ones anyways but in all reality it's cheaper just to replace the UCA is you keep factory. Even better would be to replace with some nice after market adjustables...

I am confused cause I have never seen a UCA bushing that is attached to the axle itself..

 

You can use a large puller (two arm type) and a disc of heavy plate (1/4" or thicker) and the puller becomes a press. I have only done this with the axle on a bench. Can't say how this will work in the vehicle. HTH
Blue

 

So the UCA bushings are on the axle and not the arm itself?

 

Yes OKC, look at this picture of them in and out of two D30s sitting in a driveway.

 

The frame end of the UCA has a bushing in it, the axle end of the UCA does not.

 

Sucinct and to thepoint. The axle end has the bushing in the cast axle bracket ( depicted in the photograph above) while at the opposite end one finds tha bushing enthroned in the control arm itself.
Blue

 

I learned something new today.. Thank you guys..now when I decide to replace my UCA's I'll be prepared for hell..

 

No problem if the axle is sitting on the ground. In and out in ten minutes.

 

Well I do have to get another D30 and a 97+ 8.25 then I can begin rebuilding axles with 4.10's and LSD or lockers and better axle shafts...then maybe sometime next year I can install them and then install new UCA's....It's amazing how far back the axle sits with the new lift

 

Geometry. That is why the new taller lifts have adjustable control arms and then you can keep the geometry in a semi-usable condition. Long arms are the most forgiving of the taller lifts because they screw up your axle articulation the least, thus your geometry stays more constant at different flex heights.
Bet you thought you would never need that stupid geometry you learned in high school. Well add a couple years of College geometry and you end up with a much better understanding of the concepts at work in your lifted Jeeps.

 

Lucky me the axle is on the ground.

 

Then get a really thick washer or some thick disc shaped item that will spread the force over the surface of the side of the bushing. Place the jaws of your puller over the lip of the metal casting/welded plate on the D30. Push the bushing out with the puller. Or if you like the terms better pull the metal part of the bushing's surroundings over the top of the bushing.