U joint replacement help before i hit the trail.
hey guys, i am undertaking doing my u joint on driverside frontend this weekend. and i need any advice, pointers, write ups, or videos that could help.
My u joint started clicking a little bit back but has since stopped, i figure i should still replace it any way before i hit the trail. id hate to get stuck up there. after this hopefully she will hold up for a run or two!
My u joint started clicking a little bit back but has since stopped, i figure i should still replace it any way before i hit the trail. id hate to get stuck up there. after this hopefully she will hold up for a run or two!
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 579
Likes: 1
From: Wilton, CA
Year: '93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L I4 (Mercedes Turbo Diesel planned)
It's fairly straight forward, to be honest. Gotta pull the unibearing off and then slide the shaft out to remove the joint. I don't know how you planned to get the old one off/new one on, but I'd recommend a small press. The bearing caps on mine were rusted quite nicely to the shaft itself, so it took quite a bit of force to break them loose, even after a two day soak of PB Blaster and LOTS of heat!
If you're taking the time to do one side, it'd probably be a good idea to do the other, unless you've done it recently. If one side is bad, chances are the other isn't too far behind. Not really a hard job, just time consuming. Good luck!
If you're taking the time to do one side, it'd probably be a good idea to do the other, unless you've done it recently. If one side is bad, chances are the other isn't too far behind. Not really a hard job, just time consuming. Good luck!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: North Vancouver
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre HO
Invest in a ball joint/u joint press. You'll be glad you did. Once you've got it pressed together, smack it with a hammer to break free some of the rust and they should come right out. Should really only take no more than a half hour a side if you have the right tools
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
In my experience they may not wear at the same rate or fail at the same time. If one is making rust and the other is not, then the seals probably failed in the rusty one and the other may have plenty of life left. A press sure beats sockets and a 5 lb hammer. If your unit bearing hasn't been out in a while then there will probably be a lot of rust holding it in and getting it out may be the most time consuming part of the job. Wire brush the unit bearing and knuckle mating surfaces and put antiseize on them before reassembly. Penetrant will probably help on the unit bearing bolts which are 13mm 12 point. Once you get the unit bearing out and the axle shaft out of it, you'll need to pop the C-clips on the u-joint off (screwdriver) and then use a hammer and sockets or a press to get the old u-joint out and the new one in.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
A couple of tips. You can use the power steering to pop the hub free. With the bolts out, a 3/8 extension can be fit, rear hole IIRC, against something so as when you turn it will pop the hub out.
The other is to be careful to not bend an "ear" pressing the new in. Get it tight, than whack/tease it, re-press, whack, repeat. Myself, and at least one other found it to be nutty tight! (he bent his).
Here's my thread, a little choppy, but might be some help, mine was supper onary> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-disco-147978/
The other is to be careful to not bend an "ear" pressing the new in. Get it tight, than whack/tease it, re-press, whack, repeat. Myself, and at least one other found it to be nutty tight! (he bent his).
Here's my thread, a little choppy, but might be some help, mine was supper onary> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-disco-147978/
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A couple of tips. You can use the power steering to pop the hub free. With the bolts out, a 3/8 extension can be fit, rear hole IIRC, against something so as when you turn it will pop the hub out.
The other is to be careful to not bend an "ear" pressing the new in. Get it tight, than whack/tease it, re-press, whack, repeat. Myself, and at least one other found it to be nutty tight! (he bent his).
Here's my thread, a little choppy, but might be some help, mine was supper onary> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-disco-147978/
The other is to be careful to not bend an "ear" pressing the new in. Get it tight, than whack/tease it, re-press, whack, repeat. Myself, and at least one other found it to be nutty tight! (he bent his).
Here's my thread, a little choppy, but might be some help, mine was supper onary> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-disco-147978/
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CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Ha! Yea. Just the lugs and the three hub bolts to have it out...oh and the caliper. But that's just pulling the axle. Really, it can go easy. Then the fun starts. Btw a shop might press the U-joints for a reasonable price if you don't want to tackle it. (just bring in the axle and U-joint) Sort of a pain, that. I've had it done for a 12 pack.
Ha! Yea. Just the lugs and the three hub bolts to have it out...oh and the caliper. But that's just pulling the axle. Really, it can go easy. Then the fun starts. Btw a shop might press the U-joints for a reasonable price if you don't want to tackle it. (just bring in the axle and U-joint) Sort of a pain, that. I've had it done for a 12 pack.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I've always done them myself. (especially now that I have a giant vise). That one I mentioned...I "threw a cap" on the highway, literally coasted into a Napa parking lot where they told me about a Harley shop a block away. (hence the 12 pack). Give it a go! If it kicks your *** you can still always take it in. Usually they go easy...that one in my thread really surprised me. ("in my sleep"
)
)
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Whether or not you pay someone to do the work depends on your preferences. I generally do work myself, but over the winter I had a tie rod go out and paid a shop to do it. I didn't feel like laying on my back in a cold garage in puddles of water from melting snow on the Jeep. With no special tools required its a good candidate to do yourself, but if you have doubts I'd take it somewhere. For what its worth, the front left axle shaft u-joint on my 01 XJ is the first u-joint I ever replaced myself.
had to bump up the timeline a little. the tire started wobbling on my way to work this morning...... gonna try it tonight! you guys have inspired confidence though i think i can do it, got it soaking in pb blaster right now.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5



