U-Joint Question
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6- 4 liter
U-Joint Question
Again today when we were wheelin I broke yet another u-joint which made me loses my rear driveline again.....this time it was pretty much on flat ground I have had this happen like 4 times already How do I keep from blowin them up? and advice?
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
All about U-joints:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm
& buy one of these:
Craftsman Magnetic Universal Protractor
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&keyword=angle
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm
& buy one of these:
Craftsman Magnetic Universal Protractor
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&keyword=angle
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#8
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6- 4 liter
Rear
Rear I have clearencing issues so I use my 32's but its weird the way I broke Sat was i wasn't even angled crazy it was flat. My dad figures I just have real bad axle wrap because I need to stiffen up my rear were going to add another leaf
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Year: 1998 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So if i remember right after just reading your setup, you have 32's on the front, 33x12.50's on the rear with a stock dana 35 and a lincon locker in the read diff? with that setup its just a matter of a little bit of time till the weakest point in your drivetrain will break, That being your u joints. be thank ful that they are breaking and not something else more expensive.
Are they breaking in the same situation everytime?
Are you turning when they break?
What type of ground are you on?
What type of u joints are you using?
Try spicers, more expensive but a lot stronger.
Are you using a t case drop or shimming the rear axle?
Are they breaking in the same situation everytime?
Are you turning when they break?
What type of ground are you on?
What type of u joints are you using?
Try spicers, more expensive but a lot stronger.
Are you using a t case drop or shimming the rear axle?
#11
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6- 4 liter
Setup
I have only wheeled my 32 11.50 My 33's can't be wheeled yet because i dont have enough clearence....I am thankful its just u joints but I destroyed my yoke to and the last time we tried the trail i also broke part of my axle...I need drivelines I'll admit that but aint nothing but money I do have lock right for it just have to get a new carrier
So if i remember right after just reading your setup, you have 32's on the front, 33x12.50's on the rear with a stock dana 35 and a lincon locker in the read diff? with that setup its just a matter of a little bit of time till the weakest point in your drivetrain will break, That being your u joints. be thank ful that they are breaking and not something else more expensive.
usually yes seems like and as soon as i heard the noise I knew I broke and my rear driveline came out agian. Turning? im moving but not really turning and usually just wet dirt this was flat to... i don't do crawlin or muddin. Whatever they have at napa
Are they breaking in the same situation everytime?
Are you turning when they break?
What type of ground are you on?
What type of u joints are you using?
Try spicers, more expensive but a lot stronger.
Are you using a t case drop or shimming the rear axle?
usually yes seems like and as soon as i heard the noise I knew I broke and my rear driveline came out agian. Turning? im moving but not really turning and usually just wet dirt this was flat to... i don't do crawlin or muddin. Whatever they have at napa
Are they breaking in the same situation everytime?
Are you turning when they break?
What type of ground are you on?
What type of u joints are you using?
Try spicers, more expensive but a lot stronger.
Are you using a t case drop or shimming the rear axle?
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