How can I turbo charge my AC, 88 Pioneer.
97 degrees and won't quite keep up.
I have added dyno mat to the roof and everywhere else, also high end widow tinting.
I need it colder with more fan power.

 

You want it colder or to blow faster?
Mine seems to blow plenty cold, but I've been curious about the blowing harder idea. I just haven't looked into how the speed works. I'm guessing its a voltage value that determines the RPMs. 3V is lo, 5V is next, then like 9 and 12V for the highest speed is what I'm thinking. I may grab my multimeter and see how many volts are getting to the blower motor at different speed settings and if its less than the motor is rated for, which I'm guessing it should be up near 12 volts on high, then figure out how to send more voltage to it without going past the ratings, and being controllable. That may just mean you have to install a different switch to control the speed, like a potentiometer. Something like that...............

 

On high, the blower motor gets full voltage. On the lower speeds it put a resistor in series with the blower. The blower motor resistors are in the flow of the vent to keep them from overheating. Being an 88, it would have had R-12 as the original freon which is hard to come by.

 

Some cars use a relay to power the fan motor on high so it can get the most voltage to the blower motor .

 

Gotta love all the ac threads now that summers kicking about. Turbo charge your ac? Are you sure your ac system is even working properly? Vacuum leaks, bad check valve can cause the blend doors to not activate fully and it will feel like the fans barely blowing.

 

No I am not completley for sure it is working properly.
I did have the blend door worked on very recently as it was stuck is defrost, so I think it is functioning properly
I will need to take a temp. output reading,
I do need a stronger fan blowing, so I will attempt to check the voltage.

 

What is the outlet temp at the center vent when AC is set to max? Let it run a few minutes to stabilize.

My '88 Laredo will get down to about 45F on a hot day. It can take 5-10 minutes to get there if it sat in the sun all day as it may be 120F inside.

 

Make sure your fan is getting full power, and that the fan blades are not loaded with debries, and that the fan spins freely. also make sure all the air van flaps work correctly and that the heater system is shut off, as it might be the heater is still on while a.c. is on do to a defect in control.

If that is all good, have the a.c. checked for performance, make sure the cold coil is indeed getting cold. if not have a.c. repaired. if you have R12, Id stick with R12, R12 can still be had, and the price is not too bad.

 

What's "not too bad"? Real McCoy R12 (not those Propane based replacements) are going for $30+ a can. Renix takes 3 cans so just the refrigerant is about $100. A shop can reclaim and recycle but I have no idea of the cost.

My '88 is still R-12 but I'm EPA Sec 609 certified so I can buy more when I find a deal.

 

My center outlet temp is 58.
I am having the freon checked today

 

This will help also, with blower speed.CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE

NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 28 COMMENTSOn 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps.

So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!!

What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely.

Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit.

Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector.

Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this.

Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first.

Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.

 

Thank you sir, the ground will be corrected today.

 

That is the price of staying cool, not too bad considering the price of things these days. 90 bucks is not much these days.

 

We can start a list of what the problem could be if it isnt blowing cold....
Clogged/bad orifice tube (or clog anywhere else)
Air in the system
Bad accumulator not protecting the compressor
Weak compressor
Lack of freon
Clogged or blocked condenser or Evap
Essentially it could be any pieces of the system. You can look for tiny leaks that take a long time to make the air warm by using one of those UV dye kits.

 

If your system is empty:

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/how...ersion.493953/