transmission shifting problems
Hi, I have a1998 jeep Cherokee sport RHD. After sitting overnight or just a couple of hours, when I accelerate it takes a long time to shift and it feels like it has no power (moves very slow no matter how hard I push on the gas) sometimes it slips on first and second gear changes ( not all the time). Have noticed when it doesn't want to shift the RPMs goes as high as 2000 to a little over before it changes. Sometimes I can let off the gas and get it to change. We changed out the selenoids last winter, doesn't seem to have helped, seems like it has gotten worse over time. Any ideas on my problem?
Hi, I have a1998 jeep Cherokee sport RHD. After sitting overnight or just a couple of hours, when I accelerate it takes a long time to shift and it feels like it has no power (moves very slow no matter how hard I push on the gas) sometimes it slips on first and second gear changes ( not all the time). Have noticed when it doesn't want to shift the RPMs goes as high as 2000 to a little over before it changes. Sometimes I can let off the gas and get it to change. We changed out the selenoids last winter, doesn't seem to have helped, seems like it has gotten worse over time. Any ideas on my problem?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi, I have a1998 jeep Cherokee sport RHD. After sitting overnight or just a couple of hours, when I accelerate it takes a long time to shift and it feels like it has no power (moves very slow no matter how hard I push on the gas) sometimes it slips on first and second gear changes ( not all the time). Have noticed when it doesn't want to shift the RPMs goes as high as 2000 to a little over before it changes. Sometimes I can let off the gas and get it to change. We changed out the selenoids last winter, doesn't seem to have helped, seems like it has gotten worse over time. Any ideas on my problem?
How many miles on the transmission?
Has the trans fluid ever been changed?
Are you capable of working on your Jeep?
Edit: Forgot to ask. Do you have a CHECK ENGINE light on the instrument cluster? If not, does the bulb illuminate when you turn the ignition switch to RUN, before cranking the engine?
Last edited by CCKen; Oct 3, 2014 at 10:01 AM.
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Here is the catch. If you have been driving it slipping damage is already done to the clutch packs.
Yes it's easy for me to say because I rebuild them. But if it's got much over a hundred thousand miles on it I promise you I can find out something internally wrong with it.
9.99 transmissions out of 10 can't be fixed by an electrical test or repair on an old transmission. It I will come back and bite you if you think you can get away with it. I have learned this the hard way. I always try and save people money. But with transmissions it's not worth it. Because there is always something internally wrong under the op ' s symptoms.
Perfect example is the last transmission I repaired. Owner was a tight wad. So ok I will help. Symptoms was no overdrive on an electronic aod transmission. Pulled the pan off and found a servo clip broken and the broken piece got wedged in a valve. Awesome! Tranny problem solved and saved the customer money. I put it back together. No change.
Ended up pulling it anyways. Found that the OD sprag had come apart. As well as 1 and second packs burnt even though they shifted fine. The tranny had 167000 miles on it. I knew better. Should have pulled it from the start. So while I tried to save the customer money I ended up costing him more and had the truck another week.
Yes it's easy for me to say because I rebuild them. But if it's got much over a hundred thousand miles on it I promise you I can find out something internally wrong with it.
9.99 transmissions out of 10 can't be fixed by an electrical test or repair on an old transmission. It I will come back and bite you if you think you can get away with it. I have learned this the hard way. I always try and save people money. But with transmissions it's not worth it. Because there is always something internally wrong under the op ' s symptoms.
Perfect example is the last transmission I repaired. Owner was a tight wad. So ok I will help. Symptoms was no overdrive on an electronic aod transmission. Pulled the pan off and found a servo clip broken and the broken piece got wedged in a valve. Awesome! Tranny problem solved and saved the customer money. I put it back together. No change.
Ended up pulling it anyways. Found that the OD sprag had come apart. As well as 1 and second packs burnt even though they shifted fine. The tranny had 167000 miles on it. I knew better. Should have pulled it from the start. So while I tried to save the customer money I ended up costing him more and had the truck another week.
Last edited by holycaveman; Oct 3, 2014 at 09:55 AM.
The jeep has 315,000 miles on it as of yesterday. Transmission was rebuilt around 150,000 about 3 yrs. ago. Fluid has been changed on a fairly regular schedule. As I said we (my husband and myself) changed out the solenoids last winter. Fluid looks clean now. We changed the throttle position sensor about 6 months ago and adjusted the transmission throttle cable. The muffler needs changing before the end of Oct. for inspection, haven't checked the cat. Check engine light is on and we had it checked at O'reilly's and it showed only P0700( which means it has something to do with the trans.)
The jeep has 315,000 miles on it as of yesterday. Transmission was rebuilt around 150,000 about 3 yrs. ago. Fluid has been changed on a fairly regular schedule. As I said we (my husband and myself) changed out the solenoids last winter. Fluid looks clean now. We changed the throttle position sensor about 6 months ago and adjusted the transmission throttle cable. The muffler needs changing before the end of Oct. for inspection, haven't checked the cat. Check engine light is on and we had it checked at O'reilly's and it showed only P0700( which means it has something to do with the trans.)
You know of course I hope I am wrong. But electrical problems usually don't "get worse" mechanical problems do. Confirming this is what you changed last winter.
I wish I had a better answer for you.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My transmission shop that I've used for about 25 yrs. started with him on race car trans Turbo 400's then and all of our work trucks showed early with the quality of his work. Like you said only time you have problems arte when you cut corners or try and save a buck, every time it seems.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You could perform the manual shifting test to determine if the problem is mecanical (inside the trans) or electrical.
You have to disconnect the TCM, which is located under the dash on the driver's side, to the right of the steering column. You have to remove the trim panel and knee blocker from under the steering column to access it. It's a small siver box held on with two fasteners.
The test:
AW4 MANUAL SHIFTING TEST (FSM Procedures)
(1) This test determines if problem is related to mechanical or electrical component.
(2) Stop engine and disconnect transmission control module.
(3) Road test vehicle. Shift transmission into each gear range. Transmission should operate as follows:
CAUTION: Do not over speed the engine during the next test step. Ease off the throttle and allow the vehicle to slow before downshifting.
(5) Continue road test. Manually downshift transmission from D to 3, and from 3 to 1–2 position. Then manually upshift transmission through forward ranges again.
Perform this test and if it shows it's an electrical problem, there's troubleshooting steps that can be taken.
If it shows it's mechanical it could be the valve body, insufficient oil pressure, or even the Torque Converter gone bad.
Let us know.
You have to disconnect the TCM, which is located under the dash on the driver's side, to the right of the steering column. You have to remove the trim panel and knee blocker from under the steering column to access it. It's a small siver box held on with two fasteners.
The test:
AW4 MANUAL SHIFTING TEST (FSM Procedures)
(1) This test determines if problem is related to mechanical or electrical component.
(2) Stop engine and disconnect transmission control module.
(3) Road test vehicle. Shift transmission into each gear range. Transmission should operate as follows:
- lock in Park
- back up in Reverse
- not move in Neutral
- provide first gear only with shift lever in 1–2 position
- operate in third gear only with shift lever in 3 position
- operate in overdrive fourth gear in D position
CAUTION: Do not over speed the engine during the next test step. Ease off the throttle and allow the vehicle to slow before downshifting.
(5) Continue road test. Manually downshift transmission from D to 3, and from 3 to 1–2 position. Then manually upshift transmission through forward ranges again.
Perform this test and if it shows it's an electrical problem, there's troubleshooting steps that can be taken.
If it shows it's mechanical it could be the valve body, insufficient oil pressure, or even the Torque Converter gone bad.
Let us know.
Yeah, kinda thought it would come to getting someone to check it out. Finding someone reputable is sometimes the problem. The guy that did the rebuild job closed his business and I heard he works for another shop but, I'm not sure I can find him (he was the best around).
When I get it checked I'll let you know what happens.
When I get it checked I'll let you know what happens.
Yeah, kinda thought it would come to getting someone to check it out. Finding someone reputable is sometimes the problem. The guy that did the rebuild job closed his business and I heard he works for another shop but, I'm not sure I can find him (he was the best around).
When I get it checked I'll let you know what happens.
When I get it checked I'll let you know what happens.


