Transmission Rebuild
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6; 4.0L
Transmission Rebuild
Decided to go to the dealership yesterday to get a tranny diag done to the jeep. And of course I have the worst possible luck. My shift solenoid b has shorted out causing my Cherokee to run in Limp Mode. And Limp Mode decided to destroy my transmission so I now need to do a rebuild. Ill be going with a transmission specialist on this one instead of trying to do it on my own. Needless to say, Im going to be picking up Tranny from a local auto salvage shop for about 350$.
But my question is, should I replace anything in the tranny before installing it to my XJ? Just to attempt to avoid any possible issues down the road.
But my question is, should I replace anything in the tranny before installing it to my XJ? Just to attempt to avoid any possible issues down the road.
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Are you certain the trans is destroyed and not merely in need of one solenoid? What are the symptoms?
The other question- what to replace in a used trans before installing- generally nothing but the fluid unless you know of an issue or plan on doing a rebuild. Make sure the solenoids measure in spec, the fluid doesn't stink and there's no sign of weeping near the front and rear seals.
Are you planning on doing a rebuild, or installing the used trans as-is?
The other question- what to replace in a used trans before installing- generally nothing but the fluid unless you know of an issue or plan on doing a rebuild. Make sure the solenoids measure in spec, the fluid doesn't stink and there's no sign of weeping near the front and rear seals.
Are you planning on doing a rebuild, or installing the used trans as-is?
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Year: 2000
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Engine: Straight 6; 4.0L
What they told me was that Because I was running it in limp mode for so long I did quite some damage to the tranny, and I could replace the solenoids but I would be looking at 1000$+ in parts and labor and I wouldnt be guaranteed that it would fix my issue. Honestly I probably caused this whole issue from doing so many burn outs at car shows,
And Im just gonna buy one and replace the seals, fluid, and the filter. I dont have the money to do a complete rebuild, so If i had too I just wanted to change some of the old parts ouy and put new ones in.
And Im just gonna buy one and replace the seals, fluid, and the filter. I dont have the money to do a complete rebuild, so If i had too I just wanted to change some of the old parts ouy and put new ones in.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6; 4.0L
Symptoms are as followed;
1. When starting up, the jeep usually stalls out on me.
2. Feels like im taking off from 3rd gear.
3. Very very sluggish, has no go.
4. Oil drops to about 10/20 and temperature raises anywhere from 210-230ish
5. CEL flashes
6. Vibrates and shakes insanely when starting up, feels like death wobble except worse.
1. When starting up, the jeep usually stalls out on me.
2. Feels like im taking off from 3rd gear.
3. Very very sluggish, has no go.
4. Oil drops to about 10/20 and temperature raises anywhere from 210-230ish
5. CEL flashes
6. Vibrates and shakes insanely when starting up, feels like death wobble except worse.
#7
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Symptoms are as followed;
1. When starting up, the jeep usually stalls out on me.
2. Feels like im taking off from 3rd gear.
3. Very very sluggish, has no go.
4. Oil drops to about 10/20 and temperature raises anywhere from 210-230ish
5. CEL flashes
6. Vibrates and shakes insanely when starting up, feels like death wobble except worse.
1. When starting up, the jeep usually stalls out on me.
2. Feels like im taking off from 3rd gear.
3. Very very sluggish, has no go.
4. Oil drops to about 10/20 and temperature raises anywhere from 210-230ish
5. CEL flashes
6. Vibrates and shakes insanely when starting up, feels like death wobble except worse.
What happens if you move the shifter to 1-2? Does it take off in first gear then?
The rest of that- you have engine issues. The CEL flashing indicates a cylinder misfire, which could easily cause many of those other symptoms.
Your oil pressure and coolant temp are pretty normal.
I'd start by pulling the stored codes and see where that leads you.
Personally I'd get the engine in good working condition before putting $$ into the transmission because often "transmission" problems really aren't.
You may find you have a $100 (and 2 hours labor max) solenoid failure in an otherwise good trans. One useful way to check is drop the pan and inspect the fluid. If it stinks, looks black, or contains chunks of friction material or metals- get another one. If everything's good, replace the solenoids and the fluid.
Last edited by Radi; 09-24-2014 at 02:41 PM.
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#10
pull codes first
if you need to replace a transmission, buy a used one from craigslist or your local 4x4 message board.
we had a guy have a aw4 on a local board for $75 for like 6 months...
if you need to replace a transmission, buy a used one from craigslist or your local 4x4 message board.
we had a guy have a aw4 on a local board for $75 for like 6 months...
#11
Decided to go to the dealership yesterday to get a tranny diag done to the jeep. And of course I have the worst possible luck. My shift solenoid b has shorted out causing my Cherokee to run in Limp Mode. And Limp Mode decided to destroy my transmission so I now need to do a rebuild. Ill be going with a transmission specialist on this one instead of trying to do it on my own. Needless to say, Im going to be picking up Tranny from a local auto salvage shop for about 350$.
But my question is, should I replace anything in the tranny before installing it to my XJ? Just to attempt to avoid any possible issues down the road.
But my question is, should I replace anything in the tranny before installing it to my XJ? Just to attempt to avoid any possible issues down the road.
#12
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0
Good call on replacing the converter......
It may have debris in it from the bad trans, which you don't want going into the replacement trans...and in my opinion, they can't be "flushed"....
It may have debris in it from the bad trans, which you don't want going into the replacement trans...and in my opinion, they can't be "flushed"....
#13
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Year: 2000
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Engine: Straight 6; 4.0L
So I Spoke to several transmission specialists over the week and they came up with the conclusion that the dealership has absolutely no idea what they are talking about and the fact that they charged me nearly 200$ for a tranny they thought they were out of their mind. So 2 tranny shops that I spoke to offered me a free tranny diagnosis for a second and probably will be a third opinion.
What they were saying was that because my XJ is running in "limp" mode that should actually save my transmission instead of demolishing it. Which is why Im so confused why the dealership told me that Limp Mode ruined my tranny, because I already know that it was supposed to say it.
So once I get a day off next week Im gonna bring the Jeep by the shops and have them take a look at it instead of doing a rebuild right away.
Also, I only seem to notice that it is only doing this is the hot weather, when its somewhat cooler out it really doesnt even act like it has any issues.
Also on the off topic- I do have a cylinder misfire 3, the rail was just replaced I just bought some Bosch Spark Plugs and will be replacing those as soon as I get my day off.
Could a bad o2 sensor or cat cause any of these issues? I kinda have a weird feeling that this may also be the reason why it tries to stall out on me too, not including the Shift Solenoid code that im getting.
What they were saying was that because my XJ is running in "limp" mode that should actually save my transmission instead of demolishing it. Which is why Im so confused why the dealership told me that Limp Mode ruined my tranny, because I already know that it was supposed to say it.
So once I get a day off next week Im gonna bring the Jeep by the shops and have them take a look at it instead of doing a rebuild right away.
Also, I only seem to notice that it is only doing this is the hot weather, when its somewhat cooler out it really doesnt even act like it has any issues.
Also on the off topic- I do have a cylinder misfire 3, the rail was just replaced I just bought some Bosch Spark Plugs and will be replacing those as soon as I get my day off.
Could a bad o2 sensor or cat cause any of these issues? I kinda have a weird feeling that this may also be the reason why it tries to stall out on me too, not including the Shift Solenoid code that im getting.
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Actually my deleted post #3 was pointing out how lucky you were to get a responce from Radi. (Waz a bit toasted and decided to let it go). In my opinion shops in general, and tranny shops specifically can be...well, looking to make money, (a killing) (maybe it's the red fluid).
If you lay hands on a decent meter, and do some checks, you might well find that AW-4 just needs a solonoid, (or maybe it's an issue with the TPS, or TCU).
Random dieing, (like someone threw a switch), might be the CPS. (sometimes the gauges act goofy in that case). Not sure if there is any great love of Bosch plugs here....(Just don't know). In any case don't use Platinum, and make sure the Gap is .035.
In a pinch, I suppose whichever of the "shops" is most venomous about the Stealership, might be the best option...
If you lay hands on a decent meter, and do some checks, you might well find that AW-4 just needs a solonoid, (or maybe it's an issue with the TPS, or TCU).
Random dieing, (like someone threw a switch), might be the CPS. (sometimes the gauges act goofy in that case). Not sure if there is any great love of Bosch plugs here....(Just don't know). In any case don't use Platinum, and make sure the Gap is .035.
In a pinch, I suppose whichever of the "shops" is most venomous about the Stealership, might be the best option...
#15
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Did you have the misfire before replacing it? What exactly was replaced, the Fuel rail? Coil Packs?
Agreed with Mr. Flintstone on the Bosch plugs. Not a big fan. Plain old NGK's might be a better choice.
Do you have any O2 codes stored? Anything other than the misfire code and the Trans solenoid code in there?
Agreed with Mr. Flintstone on the Bosch plugs. Not a big fan. Plain old NGK's might be a better choice.
Do you have any O2 codes stored? Anything other than the misfire code and the Trans solenoid code in there?