stellerxj

Hey guys, I'm new here and I have a question about my transmission.

First the specs:
2000 XJ
4.0L 4x4 Auto
131k miles

If sitting in drive at a stop light, it starts to buck a bit (not a violent buck), but the RPMs don't really change on the tach. I've put it in neutral at stop lights and the problem stops. Also, it shakes/bucks randomly when in reverse and moving slowly without touching the gas pedal.

Finally, the most worrisome issue: when in overdrive and RPMs at 1500 or so, an attempt to accelerate will cause a momentary, about 1 second in duration, "kick in the ***" that is very disheartening. This occurs when there is no need for it to downshift, and it stays in overdrive like it should. Simply put, it feels like the drivetrain is going to just give up on me.

I have never had a slipping transmission before, but I would guess that's what I'm feeling. I know the AW4 is supposedly bullet proof, but I bought 2.5 years ago it with 94k miles and don't know the previous maintenance history.

It's a love/hate relationship with this thing and I'm seriously considering a trade for a Durango with 55k miles if I can't get this sorted out soon.

COSXJFAN

Take it to a tranny shop, and have it looked at. I sounds like something could be wrong in the valve body. Maybe the TCU???

rdeskater

X2 or if you dont want to take it to a shop change the fluid and filter, may help... but this does sound like a valve body issue to me

stellerxj

If it is a valve body, then would it be worth it to have the transmission rebuilt using a kit or just have the body replaced? I have read that the AW4 does not respond well to rebuilds and that I should just look for a used transmission to replace it (another crap shoot so I would like to avoid it).

kriebz

I'm not familiar with the innards of the AW4, but some (in my limited experience) 4-speed OD auto-trannys have a locking torque converter that is supposed to engage for OD. This function is supposed to engage with the 4th gear, but it's basically a separate thing, and sometimes it malfunctions. Usually this is accompanied by a tendency to push you through stops.

Even if my suggestion doesn't make sense in this case, hopefully it's an easy fix for the tranny shop, and they will give you a warranty on their work. Just make sure it's not a rip-off shop.

stellerxj

One other question: would a faulty coil pack also cause this issue? I just did plugs not that long ago and I am not throwing a misfire code, but a Jeep Service guy mentioned the coil pack could also be a culprit.

89Laredo

It could be a torque converter, valve body, solenoid, or any of a bunch of other things. But the easiest thing to do, which is FREE is to adjust your TV cable and see if it makes ANY difference...

TV Cable Adjustment



To adjust the TV cable you:
1: Push in and hold the release button
2: While holding in release button, push "conduit" in as far as it will go
3: Release button
4: Rotate throttle to WOT, some people do this with the gas pedal. Others do it from the engine compartment.
5: Hold at WOT for a few seconds, cable should ratchet out a click or two.
6: Your TV cable should now be properly adjusted, take it for a test ride.

Here is another post about it on NAXJA
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015963
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stellerxj

Apparently I was way off diagnosing the Jeep. Jeep dealer said there was a misfire history on the first 3 cylinders, and that he could sit there with the computer and watch the misfire occur at random times in drive. I guess the misfires were not bad enough for long enough to throw codes.

He also said my throttle body had significant carbon build-up, which would mean a bad air/fuel mixture or timing issue. Wanted $520 for a tune-up, injector cleaning, and throttle body cleaning. Definitely said no to that!

Dealer replaced a broken plug while they had it apart. I had changed them all 2 months ago and must have broken a piece of ceramic while installing 1. Now I plan to replace the coil pack (rail), run injector cleaner with premium fuel for a month, and eventually take a look at the throttle body. Problem solved with any luck.

It was strange that it was happening at such specific times and went away in neutral. I thought for sure it was drivetrain related. Oh well, that's why I'm not a mechanic...

COSXJFAN

Good to hear...

rdeskater

save your money and dont run the premium it doesnt burn things clean like injector cleaner will, you're just throwing you're money away high octane is simply that high octane not cleaner burning. buy a good injector cleaner and run regular gas.

98 JeepJeep

theres your first mistake....not a fan of durangos.....if you decide to get it make sure you have the suspension check with a magg glass....as the dakotas/durangos had MAJOR ball joint issues....resulting in the wheels actually falling off!!

Now on to your Jeep...firts thing i reccomend to those with shifting issues is TV cable adjustment...Takes 1 min and is SIMPLY!!

stellerxj

Ok, thanks. Thought the premium might burn a little bit hotter since it has a higher octane content.

I did some research on the Seafoam treatment this weekend. I'm going to give it a shot when it warms up around here. I also ordered the coil pack (rail). Should be good to go with any luck.

captainwoot

I agree with the others Don'T get a durango!!!!!!! you beat me to it , i was going to suggest tune up first, secondary ignition usually begins to break down under light load such as going up a small incline in od with the torque converter locked up. Glad to hear you have it figured out! As well as porducts like sea foam, Chrysler actually has there own in an aresol spray can "Combustion Chamber Cleaner" same idea spray into tb.

x2... on the priemium fuel , don't bother you won't gain anything