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Transmission line leak?

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Old 07-25-2017, 08:00 PM
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Default Transmission line leak?

This line that I'm pointing to ripped today....lost most of the trans fluid and it's currently lubricating the engine bay.
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Is that the hot line from the trans (as opposed to the line that carries cooled trans fluid from the rad back to the trans?)

Is replacing the whole line the best option? Or can it be spliced back with a new section?

One last questions: should I be concerned about having new fluid in a 133k mile trans? No idea if it's ever been changed. Thanks!!!
Old 07-26-2017, 06:01 AM
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Cut both transmission lines where they are metal and buy an external transmission cooler and run it through it.
Old 07-26-2017, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by elwoodblues
This line that I'm pointing to ripped today....lost most of the trans fluid and it's currently lubricating the engine bay.


Is that the hot line from the trans (as opposed to the line that carries cooled trans fluid from the rad back to the trans?)

Is replacing the whole line the best option? Or can it be spliced back with a new section?

One last questions: should I be concerned about having new fluid in a 133k mile trans? No idea if it's ever been changed. Thanks!!!
No concern on fluid. Use Dex/Merc only.

You can cut and splice or replace complete lines.

As for the post above, I see no reason to add a cooler. You might already have one.....
Old 07-26-2017, 08:00 AM
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I don't have an aux cooler but I don't tow or wheel this one. It's just a DD.

Should I replace the return line too?
Old 07-26-2017, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
No concern on fluid. Use Dex/Merc only.

You can cut and splice or replace complete lines.

As for the post above, I see no reason to add a cooler. You might already have one.....
Cheaper and easier IMO to bypass the cooler in the radiator when there is a problem like this.
Old 07-26-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by elwoodblues
I don't have an aux cooler but I don't tow or wheel this one. It's just a DD.

Should I replace the return line too?
If you want to. I think the one that's leaking is prone to the most flex and that's probably why it broke there.
Old 07-26-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by heydockyle
Cheaper and easier IMO to bypass the cooler in the radiator when there is a problem like this.
Really?

You would advise a fellow Jeeper to bypass the trans cooler in his vehicle?

So, the trans would have NO COOLING.

Pretty irresponsible posting IMO.......
Old 07-26-2017, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Really?

You would advise a fellow Jeeper to bypass the trans cooler in his vehicle?

So, the trans would have NO COOLING.

Pretty irresponsible posting IMO.......
Did you read anything I said, or are you just grumpy this morning. I clearly said to add an external cooler. Not only will an external cooler be larger and get more air flow, it will also not be heated by the antifreeze in the radiator. So please tell me downside to doing this. Cooler temps and cheaper and easier to fix.
Old 07-26-2017, 08:09 AM
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I'm guessing he meant bypass the in-rad cooler and add an aux one instead.

Ok...so the return lines usually live a bit longer? I thought it was just old...didn't know that were subject to much flex. I guess the question would be have most here replaced both?

Thanks for the help so far!
Old 07-26-2017, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by heydockyle
Did you read anything I said, or are you just grumpy this morning. I clearly said to add an external cooler. Not only will an external cooler be larger and get more air flow, it will also not be heated by the antifreeze in the radiator. So please tell me downside to doing this. Cooler temps and cheaper and easier to fix.
I read it and I'm grumpy.

Neither of your posts were clear no matter what my mood.

This post at least had some continuity to it.

He still doesn't need to add a cooler, re-plumb anything and all that jazz.

Just fix the frickin hose.........or hoses..............

If he is in a particularly cold climate, the internal cooler helps to warm the fluid.
Old 07-26-2017, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by elwoodblues
I'm guessing he meant bypass the in-rad cooler and add an aux one instead.

Ok...so the return lines usually live a bit longer? I thought it was just old...didn't know that were subject to much flex. I guess the question would be have most here replaced both?

Thanks for the help so far!
Inspect your motor mounts.

And, just cut the metal line at the radiator and coming from the trans, get a piece of hose from the parts store, cut it to fit, use 2 clamps on each end where it attaches to the cut metal lines, secure the rubber line so it can't rub or chafe on anything.

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Old 07-26-2017, 10:53 AM
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heydockyle - my experience with external coolers is they are rarely necessary. as aforementioned, if he is in a colder area he will need the radiator to help warm up the fluid. i did just as you suggested a couple years ago and it was evident the trans never warmed up in the winter. i put an ir temp gun on the cooler/lines and the warmest reading i got was 80*. this is after a 25 min drive - 10* ambient temp. i had even placed a rubber mat in front of the trans cooler in an effort to help it out. had hot heat but the trans always acted like it was cold...because it was.

to the OP: it's a dd? just fix the line and leave it be. mine has been a dd since 97, has 225k mikes on it now, 0 trans issues with the stock setup.
Old 07-26-2017, 11:09 AM
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Cut and splice. Add clamps. Quick, cheap, and easy.

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