Transmission line leak?
This line that I'm pointing to ripped today....lost most of the trans fluid and it's currently lubricating the engine bay. 

Is that the hot line from the trans (as opposed to the line that carries cooled trans fluid from the rad back to the trans?)
Is replacing the whole line the best option? Or can it be spliced back with a new section?
One last questions: should I be concerned about having new fluid in a 133k mile trans? No idea if it's ever been changed. Thanks!!!


Is that the hot line from the trans (as opposed to the line that carries cooled trans fluid from the rad back to the trans?)
Is replacing the whole line the best option? Or can it be spliced back with a new section?
One last questions: should I be concerned about having new fluid in a 133k mile trans? No idea if it's ever been changed. Thanks!!!
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
This line that I'm pointing to ripped today....lost most of the trans fluid and it's currently lubricating the engine bay. 

Is that the hot line from the trans (as opposed to the line that carries cooled trans fluid from the rad back to the trans?)
Is replacing the whole line the best option? Or can it be spliced back with a new section?
One last questions: should I be concerned about having new fluid in a 133k mile trans? No idea if it's ever been changed. Thanks!!!


Is that the hot line from the trans (as opposed to the line that carries cooled trans fluid from the rad back to the trans?)
Is replacing the whole line the best option? Or can it be spliced back with a new section?
One last questions: should I be concerned about having new fluid in a 133k mile trans? No idea if it's ever been changed. Thanks!!!
You can cut and splice or replace complete lines.
As for the post above, I see no reason to add a cooler. You might already have one.....
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Uniontown, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cheaper and easier IMO to bypass the cooler in the radiator when there is a problem like this.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 184
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From: Uniontown, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you read anything I said, or are you just grumpy this morning. I clearly said to add an external cooler. Not only will an external cooler be larger and get more air flow, it will also not be heated by the antifreeze in the radiator. So please tell me downside to doing this. Cooler temps and cheaper and easier to fix.
I'm guessing he meant bypass the in-rad cooler and add an aux one instead.
Ok...so the return lines usually live a bit longer? I thought it was just old...didn't know that were subject to much flex. I guess the question would be have most here replaced both?
Thanks for the help so far!
Ok...so the return lines usually live a bit longer? I thought it was just old...didn't know that were subject to much flex. I guess the question would be have most here replaced both?
Thanks for the help so far!
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Did you read anything I said, or are you just grumpy this morning. I clearly said to add an external cooler. Not only will an external cooler be larger and get more air flow, it will also not be heated by the antifreeze in the radiator. So please tell me downside to doing this. Cooler temps and cheaper and easier to fix.
Neither of your posts were clear no matter what my mood.
This post at least had some continuity to it.
He still doesn't need to add a cooler, re-plumb anything and all that jazz.
Just fix the frickin hose.........or hoses..............
If he is in a particularly cold climate, the internal cooler helps to warm the fluid.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm guessing he meant bypass the in-rad cooler and add an aux one instead.
Ok...so the return lines usually live a bit longer? I thought it was just old...didn't know that were subject to much flex. I guess the question would be have most here replaced both?
Thanks for the help so far!
Ok...so the return lines usually live a bit longer? I thought it was just old...didn't know that were subject to much flex. I guess the question would be have most here replaced both?
Thanks for the help so far!
And, just cut the metal line at the radiator and coming from the trans, get a piece of hose from the parts store, cut it to fit, use 2 clamps on each end where it attaches to the cut metal lines, secure the rubber line so it can't rub or chafe on anything.
Last edited by cruiser54; Jul 26, 2017 at 08:18 AM.
heydockyle - my experience with external coolers is they are rarely necessary. as aforementioned, if he is in a colder area he will need the radiator to help warm up the fluid. i did just as you suggested a couple years ago and it was evident the trans never warmed up in the winter. i put an ir temp gun on the cooler/lines and the warmest reading i got was 80*. this is after a 25 min drive - 10* ambient temp. i had even placed a rubber mat in front of the trans cooler in an effort to help it out. had hot heat but the trans always acted like it was cold...because it was.
to the OP: it's a dd? just fix the line and leave it be. mine has been a dd since 97, has 225k mikes on it now, 0 trans issues with the stock setup.
to the OP: it's a dd? just fix the line and leave it be. mine has been a dd since 97, has 225k mikes on it now, 0 trans issues with the stock setup.




