Hello y’all! My name is Valerie. I was given my son’s old Jeep Cherokee. It’s name is Timmy. Haha, only if ya knew the story. Anyways. There is lots wrong with it and I’m sure I can easily fix over time. But right now I’m having a very hard time knowing what solenoids to get. It sat for a year and came with a tenant…wood rat. No wires or anything we can see has been damaged. Two new tires, registration, new windshield and a new muffler/catalytic converter coming. Oil and filter changed. Ran good, then all of sudden it lost power…automatic. Pulled over and turned off. Waited a min then restarted and Drive and reversed worked until a mile and then no umph again. Kept repeating off and on and go. Drained transmission fluid; it was dirty. Got new filter and put new fluid in. It only took 9 ways and was way too much. Now I think it is still acting up because too much fluid. When I drain to level it needs, should I replace solenoids or what do y’all think? Btw; 94 Jeep Cherokee 4L V6. This is going to be my Jeep to tow behind my Skoolie. And I need it now to get back and forth to work. Snow is coming.

 

It should take just under 4 quarts of fluid.

Make sure you use Dex/Merc fluid. NOT the ATF+4!!

 

50% of my findings said 14 Qts and the other 50 said 10 qt. Once we put in the new trans fluid and it overflowed at 9 qts, we knew. So we researched more and someone said to run it a couple miles and let the fluid run through. Nope. Still not working. And I’m definitely at a loss with which fluid as you mentioned Dex and not ATF+4. Seriously that is a divided research too. I’ve been told not dex and I’ve been told not atf. Please. So I went with atf; now I feel like I should get dex. But do I or should I replace the solenoids? That is the main question really. We’ve looked at everything else and know nothing about fixing some things on this jeep. Thank you! 😊 I need to order tonight if I need to replace solenoids. I can’t continue to borrow cars/trucks.

 

ATF is an acronym for Automatic Transmission Fluid. Use Dex/Merc ATF. NOT the ATF+4.
A drain and fill on that transmission takes just shy of 4 quarts. 1 gallon.

This could be an electrical issue besides solenoids. They can be tested without removing the pan. https://comancheclub.com/topic/34253...puter-testing/

Have you ever adjusted the TV cable?
You might try this also. http://cruiser54.com/?p=58

 

No umph doesn't sound like a transmission issue.

If you have a vacuum gauge, hook it up and see what the manifold vacuum is doing when you snap the throttle. It could be a clogged cat (those are the typical symptoms)

You might also want to check the fuel pressure as well.

 

fuel pressure is good. And when I say we, I mean my 30 year old son and myself and we know nothing about this year jeep. We have been going through the process of elimination haha. Removed catalytic converter. Nope. I do not know how to check the solenoids and I’m a hands on gal, need a video to show me. I’ll look. I have tried three shops here in good ol Cheyenne that would have a OBD1 code reader. None so far. And my manual is not very helpful. Thank you for the response; everything helps

 

yes, I knew what atf stands for. My son and myself do lots of research and it’s not helpful when everyone’s advice is split down the middle. We are seriously trying our best

 

The mixed advice on which fluid is because Chrysler decided to standardize on fluid and ignore what the original spec and the manufacturer of the transmission recommend. Dex II was the original spec. Many folks have used the ATF4+ without issue, but you're best to use what Aisin-Warner (the manufacturer) calls for.

 

https://www.quadratec.com/c/referenc...iagnostic-code

This should help.

What was the fuel pressure reading? I've seen them have enough to run, but barely enough to stay driving.

Also, get a multimeter. You're probably going to need one to diagnose the lack of power.

 

When you get no umph, is this when stopped and setting off? If it happens again, try putting it in 1-2 to set off, then 3, then 4 selecting 1st, 3rd and 4th manually.

 

It’s automatic. So when driving, I was coasting at 40 behind a semi going around a bend. And when I gave it gas, to get up to 55 and cruise into town, I all of a sudden lost power, no get up and go. Nothing. Rpm’s dropped and I pulled over. While running I gave it gas in Drive and it didn’t budge, but rev’d up. I put it in reverse and nothing. Turned off engine and sat for a minute. Barely a minute. Turned on and put in Drive and drove…until it reached about a mile and then nothing again. No Drive or reverse. I had to keep turning off and sat for a min and repeat ( this is how I headed back to the house. This is all I know for now. My sons best friend is a mechanic and has helped when he can. Family military man and still does tours…so the help is sporadic

 

thanks for the link, all the help is appreciated. I only know what my sons best friend said. And he said the fuel pressure is fine

 

I want to believe that, but I don't believe it. Recently there was a no-start thread that was some 3 pages long. The guy changed hundreds of dollars of parts, and finally it ended up being the fuel pump. All because he refused to believe that he didn't need to check fuel pressure with a gauge. All he was doing was pressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail and called that "good enough".

I'm not saying that's your problem, I'm just saying you need to know the number from the pressure gauge.

 

I couldn't agree more!!

 

Not moving when revved in reverse eliminates a lot of things. It's not electrical, solenoids, throttle position sensor, trans computer, nss. Honestly it sounds like the trans is simply low on fluid, and possibly the throttle body to trans cable needs adjusted.

The cable adjustment is dirt simple and only take a few minutes under the hood.