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Transmission Fluid? Need a fast answer

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Old 06-05-2010, 12:04 PM   #1
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Default Transmission Fluid? Need a fast answer

ok so the person who changed my trans filter and fluid didnt tighten the drain plug and now i need to put trans fluid in how much should it take manual says 8.5 but that sounds like a little much so how much do i need all has drain out of my trans
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:06 PM   #2
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The pan holds 2.5 liters (about half a gallon) Im not sure how much the whole system holds. Did you start the jeep with the plug out? If not, just add the 2.5l, start it and check it.
You need Dexron III
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:08 PM   #3
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yes i started it with the plug half out
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:11 PM   #4
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8.5-9 qts is right... Just try not to overfill it.
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:15 PM   #5
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For a full fill from a total overhaul and new torque converter, you're looking at eight quarts (two gallons.)

For a "service fill" (drain/drop pan and refill,) you're looking at four quarts (a gallon.)

How much you really need is going to depend on how much got pumped out when you were trying to run it - there is the front pump that generates the fluid pressure to run the box, and the torque converter itself doubles as a circulation pump (minimal contribution to pressure.) So, the torque converter may have emptied itself.

Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.

NB: Automatic Transmission fluid level must be checked "Hot, Engine Idling, in Park." Failure to do so will give you a "false full" reading, since the fluid won't be circulating and filling the passages. Checking it cold with the engine running will end up with you overfilling; which will cause foaming, cavitation, and damage to hydraulic parts using high pressures. Treat this point as Important!
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:51 PM   #6
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^^^damn, youre good at this!^^^
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:50 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ltlgreenXJ View Post
^^^damn, youre good at this!^^^
Do something for 30 years or so, and you get good...
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:37 AM   #8
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thanks for all the help guys....but my problem is now bigger than it was apparently. i tightened the drain plug and its now leaking fluid as fast as it goes in
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:41 AM   #9
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i tightened the drain plug and its now leaking fluid as fast as it goes in

From where, are the plug threads stripped?
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:19 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J View Post
i tightened the drain plug and its now leaking fluid as fast as it goes in

From where, are the plug threads stripped?
you forget the washer behind the bolt?
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:36 PM   #11
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i got it fixed thanks guys
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
Do something for 30 years or so, and you get good...
We're glad you're so liberal with sharing what you know, though
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:02 PM   #13
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We're glad you're so liberal with sharing what you know, though
What's the point in learning so much if I don't use it to help others?
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:16 AM   #14
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Default thanks for the info. much help

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
For a full fill from a total overhaul and new torque converter, you're looking at eight quarts (two gallons.)

For a "service fill" (drain/drop pan and refill,) you're looking at four quarts (a gallon.)

How much you really need is going to depend on how much got pumped out when you were trying to run it - there is the front pump that generates the fluid pressure to run the box, and the torque converter itself doubles as a circulation pump (minimal contribution to pressure.) So, the torque converter may have emptied itself.

Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.

NB: Automatic Transmission fluid level must be checked "Hot, Engine Idling, in Park." Failure to do so will give you a "false full" reading, since the fluid won't be circulating and filling the passages. Checking it cold with the engine running will end up with you overfilling; which will cause foaming, cavitation, and damage to hydraulic parts using high pressures. Treat this point as Important!
this helped settle an unfitting argument
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Old 01-19-2017, 12:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post

Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.
Treat this point as Important!
I'm here to appreciate the word slushboxen.
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