Simpson 260 is an awesome analog meter.
Speed sensor- when they totally fail the trans sticks in first gear. Yours might be having some sort of issue. Checking the wiring and connector would be prudent, I don't know of any definite way to test the sensor itself other than substitution.
TPS first though, it can cause the trans to do oddball stuff.

 

Well guess what?....... Looks like it's the TPS. I couldnt get anything to fit into the back of the connector to check the voltage output. But I checked the resistance and it seems to have a dead spot when I first start to open the TB. Also when I wiggle the TB butterfly the resistance will change. Gonna hit the pull-a-part tomorrow and see if I can get lucky and find another TPS on the cheap. Knew I should have investigated further into the problem rather than beliving in a miracle cure

 

Indeed the 260 is a marvel of old school tech

 

I found I could "de-burr" the end of a straightened paper clip with emery paper or my knife stone. Not perfect, but with some jiggleing and probing, it jambs in there. I have meter leads with clips...Good luck at the JY!

 

Yep. Mine dates to the late 60's and still puts in a day's work. They're still in production just north of here in Lac du Flambeau.

 

Got lucky at the JY and found two TPS, but neither of them helped. Also picked up a speed sensor while I was there, installed it in the front position and still no dice. Borrowed a buddys TCU and still no diffrence. I'm going to replace the P.I.T.A. to get to rear speed sensor with one of the others I have and see what happens. If that dosent work looks like Im going to be chasing wires this weekend.

Dose anyone know where to find a pin out diagram for the 97+ TCU? All the ones I have found are for the older models. I want to check the resistance on the shift solenoids from the plug.

 

I'm no real help. I did have this;

AW4 operation.
1st gear - solenoid 1 ON, solenoid 2 OFF
2nd gear - solenoid 1 ON, solenoid 2 ON
3rd gear - solenoid 1 OFF, solenoid 2 ON
4th gear - solenoid 1 OFF, solenoid 2 OFF
Lockup - Solenoid 3

So.. if solenoid 1 were bad, 1st and second gear would have problems. If solenoid 2 were bad, 2nd and 3'rd would have problems.

 

Thats whats so confusing about it. Usually the first time I start off it will shift through all of the gears and lockup perfectly. After I stop and start again it wont shift out of first untill I let off the throttle at around 3k RMP and allow it time to shift at which point it shifts to 3rd then 4th but the converter never locks. The "soft shift'' that I described in my OP was it actually skipping 2nd and going into 3rd. I only realized it after shifting manually for a while and feeling how it shifts from 1st to 3rd . So, if I'm understanding this correctly the solenoids have to be working for me to be able to get 1st, 3rd, and 4th right? Or am I just too dumb to see the connection?

Thanks again

 

It seems Radi is a bit of a night Owl, (from west coast time). He's your guy, or one of the best here for that anyway.

I recently drove my 90 for over a month with the TPS shot. (I'm sure, I had a live voltage read in the cab). It would shift up through the gears pretty normal. One of those shifts is supper subtle, hard to feel. I looked pretty stupid here> (post #27), https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dec...ammage-105739/

Anyway with no variance in something like 4 volts to the TCU, the only problem was it wouldn't kick down, only down shifted after I slowed, then hit the gas. A new TPS took care of that.

I set the cable with about zero play Btw. That "auto" business....Idk...

 

Plug pinout in this thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tcu-my-xj-168259/

Note the comment by CobraMarty regarding pins 1-2-3 on his '97.

With no solenoids you'll be in 4th gear all the time, yours appear to be working, but they could be sticking or slow.
Resistance should be in the 11-13 ohm range- check them when they are good and warm. (and again cold if you like)

 

No lockup can be caused by a faulty or misadjusted switch near the pivot point of the brake pedal. I don't know if that being wonky might cause other issues. It's the white switch in the pic.

And I would not keep avoiding adjusting the TV cable.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the link.




I've already tried the TV cable with no success. I'm going to put adjusting the brake switch on the agenda for tomorrow as well as checking componets from thr TCU plug per radi's link. It's my anniversary today so I'm gonna spend the day with the Mrs.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll let y'all know what find

 

Unless I'm mistaken, gleaned from posts by Radi, that white switch by the brake light switch, at the brake pedal, will only prevent Torque converter locking with the brake on. Sol # 3 maybe.

For diagnosing that I might just un-plug it. Idk.. be careful! It might try to keep going at a stop sign!

 

Check it with an ohmeter. Take 39 seconds to do.

 

Well lo and behold I think I have found it! Looks like it is the trans solenoid A, pin #12 in the pinout. Both the other solenoids ohmed 14ish to the TCU plug ground and #12 or solenoid A was reading in the meghoms. The brake switch seems to be good, it reads N/C and opens when I depress the pedal. Soooooo........

Now for my next question. Is it worth it to use JY solenoids or should I just go ahead and pull the trigger on a new set? Also will 2wd solenoids work in the 4wd AW4?

Also on a side note. I found out that the proper sized cotter pin straightend out makes an awesome test probe for the TCU plug.