I'd like to change the fluid/filter in my "97 Sport.Is it a difficult/messy job?

 

not difficult just messy

 

What type of ATF do i need?

 

DexronIII/Mercon IIRC, but dont quote me on that...
If I remember right they origionally used DexronII (DII is stamped on the plug), but that is no longer around...

 

AW4 = dexron III or similar.

 

Thanks.My XJ has 168K on it.Would synthetic be a good idea?Or would i get some leaks,like with synthetic motor oil.

 

stay away from synthetics with that many miles

 

That's what i figured.Thanks

 

Synthetic will clean and remove alot of crud buildup, which exposes weak or damaged seals and this causes leaks. It's not GUARANTEED to leak but it could. I would just keep using what has been in there since day one since it works.

 

Difficult? Not really (apart from separating the dipstick tube to get the pan down. Look up along the tube coming out of the pan, you'll see a flare about 4" up. The tube pulls apart here. Coat the male end of the fitting liberally with grease before reassembly - that will make it easier next time. PTFE dope will also work.)

Messy? Usually is once you get the pan down. Simply because the transmission keeps dripping everywhere.

I find that the mess is mitigated somewhat if you pull the drain plug and then go take a break for an hour or so - most of the dripping will then go into the sump pan, which will fall into the drain pan.

Be careful when pulling down the sump pan - there's a little lip that makes the drain plug bung, so you don't get all of the fluid out when you pull the plug. Put the plug back in loosely to help control this.

Clean the threads on the plug and coat with RTV black before you finally put it back in - helps seal the thing and helps prevent the plug from seizing (making it easier to take out next time.)

Make sure to clean the magnet in the pan off, if it looks "hairy." This way you can see if something is coming apart again (most of the "hair" is iron filings from transmission break-in. You shouldn't see enough to matter beween changes after you clean the magnet the first time.)

 

Deonron/Mercon specs are reverse compatible - which is why I usually list it as "Dexron II/IIE/III/VI".

NB: DO NOT USE ATF +3/+4! It's a ChryCo-spec fluid, and the AW4 is a Toyota box. Soe people get lucky, but reports from the field usually indicate a sudden increase in chatter and slip - and you've got to go through a couple cases of Dex to get rid of enough +3/+4 to matter!