I read enough threads to learn there was probably really no need to drop the trans pan and change the filter. BUT I didn't read far enough to learn about the dip stick tube debacle, and more...

So I drain the fluid which is black and kinda thickish (this was a farm vehicle for many years) and I think hey, I already bought the filter and gasket before I learned I probably didn't need to, but I have it so why not use it, especially since the fluid looks so crappy. DOH!!!

Well then I learn about the dip stick tube issue but I'm ok to try and tackle that. Then I learn mine is one where I need to drop the transmission cross member, which I do. But now the exhaust crossover pipe won't let it drop, due to the big bulbous part (whatever that is?). I can't get the manifold bolts to break loose and it's too tight for a grinder or torch so I'm ready to call a truce.

So now I'm thinking I'll just try to clean the surfaces as best as possible and then hope it seals. BUT I can see the filter and part of me doesn't want to let it win. But I can't see the fasteners to know what to use to drop it, assuming I have room and flexibility enough to do so. Can anybody give me a heads up? Hex heads?

Many thanks,

 

If you change the screen that's when it has won. Seal the pan, put it back up. Dont hulk the pan bolts on, you will deform the sealing lip.

Next time just cut the cooler line and pump the fluid out all at once, fill with fresh stuff. Refer to blueridgemark he did a whole thing on it.

 

If you unbolt the dipstick mount and push some of the harnesses around you should be ablr to drop the pan 4 or 5 inches in the back and maybe an inch or two in the front. that should give you enough room to scrape all of the gasket off and remove the 3? bolts that hold the filter in. Wipe the pan with a clean rag soaked in solvent..clean the magnets and put them back in As you can see by the new one..the filter is only a fine screen..basically catches big chunks but if you have access to the bolts...why not. I hope its kind of warm where you are...laying in the snow to do this sux..see how many bolt holes are in the new filter...they are 12mm pretty sure. might be 10.they are black so you cant see if all dirty..spray filter with solvent/degreaser and you will see the bolts

 

Check out Magnefine filters for an alternative solution if you're looking to keep your fluid in good condition. They have a strong magnet as well as filter media. I installed one on the hose running to my transmission cooler several years back.

 

Today is fall's last hurrah, supposed to be in the upper 50s then not much above 30s for the next week or so - so I hope to button it up today. While I have a "shop" it is a semi-enclosed dirt floor and unheated.

I may just forget the screen for now since time is of the essence. The rear of the pan is about 4" down but the front hits the exhaust crossover after about 1". I'll see if I can feel those bolts.

I think I read blueridgemark's write-up on pumping out the fluid. I did that to my CTD.

BTW Cummins '93, I have a '92 W250 club cab but with the rotary pump (tweaked).

Thanks for the feedback,

 

X2. The threads in the aluminum also strip very easily. You only need moderately snug (7 ft*lbs).

 

[QUOTE=krb64;3630451
So now I'm thinking I'll just try to clean the surfaces as best as possible and then hope it seals. BUT I can see the filter and part of me doesn't want to let it win. But I can't see the fasteners to know what to use to drop it, assuming I have room and flexibility enough to do so. Can anybody give me a heads up? Hex heads?

Many thanks,[/QUOTE]

achtung !

if you have the stock exhaust, jack the trans up a bit and viola...the pan can be slipped out

maybe I did something else to help, but i dont think so, the previous gorilla wasnt as smart as me and had dented the internal Al piping

you dont need to separate the dipstick to do this job, just unbolt and drop to the ground, or just wriggle the whole thing out !

as far as a I can recall, have done it a few different ways

filter is 3 x 10mm bolts

if you want/need to separate the dipstick, lock multigrips under the expansion near the top, move aside some wires, and strike the multigrips in an upwards direction, pops it out quite quick, and they can be mighty tight

 

This thread is the poster child for just draining and refilling and leaving the "screen" alone.......

 

Ha ha, yea. I've been visiting this forum since I acquired the Jeep and thought I had read up on everything. I had already bought the filter though before I did the research. And I had even decided to keep it on the shelf but after I saw the condition of the fluid I thought, what the heck, might as well R&R since I have it...

I've already wasted too many hours on this so yea, if I had it to do over again I'd frame the new filter and hang it on my shop wall.

Didn't get time to mess with it yesterday while it was in the upper 50s but I will this morning while it's in the 20s, after all, why make it fun and easy now?

AWG, If I jack up the trans wouldn't the exhaust move with it? I mean, it's all bolted together right?

 

Ha! I "won". Finally got the exhaust bolts broken loose and shoved it forward enough to drop the pan - and the tube broke free too.

And to everyone's amazement - the screen looked perfectly fine...

So, would I do it again? Heck no, the anti-screeners are right, just drain and refill, maybe pump out and refill.

I'll try to finish getting it all back together tomorrow. The sub-zero temps plus the electricity being off kicked my butt today.

 

Got everything back together yesterday, finally. Short test drive and everything seems fine.

Upon closer examination of the screen I could detect very fine particles. Not checked if they are metal or just "dirt" yet. I may cut the thing open to look at it more closely. But bottom line - it was fine.

 

I also replaced my filter prior to what I know now about it being mostly pointless. The old one was perfectly fine and my original issue was with the solenoids which I found out after my issue remaining. After buying a solenoid kit (that comes with a filter), I now have a a spare brand new one in a drawer.

 

There is usually a fine layer of metallic dust stuck to the magnets and settled out on the pan.wiping all of that clean is probably more important than changing screen but if you just suck out the old fluid you have left all of those particles inside, and if you drop the pan to clean it then you might as well change the filter.. in 75k to 100k you will do it again...plan for june or july and do it right. You wont have to mess with it for another 7 or 8 years