No, don't use motor oil in the T-case. I believe as others have said it requires Dex/Merc III. As for the Royal purple, as far as I know it shouldn't hurt at all, synthetic is even better.

 

sweet ill just use the royal purple motor oil for the tranny and royal purple gear oil for the tcase and diffs
thanks

 

DO NOT use gear oil in the tcase!
This has been stated about 3 times in this thread.
The tcase REQUIRES Dexron III and nothing else!

 

No, dont use any gear oil in your transfer case, unless its so worn your just tryin to get by until rebuild, or new one. If the transfer case is in good shape, plain old Dexron/Mercron III is what factory puts in and recommends for refill. Royal Purple to my knowledge makes a product called Syncromesh for manual trannies that specify a lighter weight gear oil, motor oil or ATF for refill and also works well in transfer cases that specify ATF or motor oil. Or you could use Royal Purple ATF. Ultimate would be one bottle Royal Purple ICE coolant enhancer, 6 quarts Royal Purple 10w-40, or 5w-40 for engine with oversized filter(93 year or newer), Royal Purple Syncromesh for manual trans or Royal Purple ATF for AW4 auto, Syncromesh for transfer case, Royal Purple 75w-140 for both front and rear axles, and last but not least Royal Purple Synthetic Grease for all joints.

 

k how much of that stuff does the t-case take then

 

j/k but get yourself a chiltons book.

 

isnt that the point of this forum is so we dont need to go buy manuals people can just help other people out
jackass

 

Isn't Dexron III trani fluid??

 

no way you can put motor oil in a gear box unless you want to toast your synchronizers real fast.
A gearbox requires hypoy 80w 90 gear oil or 75w 90
The AW4 requires Dexron II OR BETTER.
NP 231 any ATF is OK
NP241 any ATF is ok
Axles: 80W 90, 75w 140 if you tow, LSD additive if you have LSD.

 

i guess some people would rather just help themselves and actually get stuff done when they need to instead of wasting time posting a thread when even a quick google search answers all of your questions a chiltons book is a good thing to have

 

GL3 is hard to find - Do a search and see how many people are using motor oil

Part number 4897622aa was superceded by part number 4761839AC.

4761839AC is 10W30 Oil!!!! Chrysler is recommending 10W30 for the AX-5 / AX-15 Trannies!
*Pennzoil Syncromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax are only recommended for the NV3550 and other NV trannys. (Not recommended for AX-5/AX-15).

*Pennzoil has a GL4 lube, and Royal Purple recommends 10W40 motor oil for all 98 and newer jeep manual transmissions WITHOUT the NV trans. (Ax-5/Ax-15 fall in this category)

*10W30 and (Jeeps recommended) GL-3 are roughly the same viscosity, and Gl-4 and 10W40 same viscosity as well.

*All GL lubes have some kind of Sulfur content in them (needed for the High pressure Hypoid gears in rear ends, but not necessarily needed for most transmissions.)

*Sulfur addadives react to brass internal parts.

*GL-5 has twice the sulfur content of GL-4.

*AX-5 and AX-15 are japanese manual transmissions, and the majority of manual Japanese transmission do not recommend the use of GL-5. because of the way it reacts to brass.

*Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear lubricant satisfying the API Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity requirements for ATFs.

*Redline MT-90 is a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40.


So it's safe to say:

AX-5/AX-15 can use 10W30, 10W40, GL-4, Or Redlines MT-90 or MTL

and the New Venture transmissions Pennzoil Synchromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax.

 

no you should at least have one if you cant get the right answer like from someone like yourself.

 

What the builder recommends isn't necessarily what is best for the vehicle's integrity and life. Builders (and government) recommend low viscosity oils for engines (0w 30) and gearboxes (10w 40) to lower fuel consumption and emissions. This is in contrast with a sufficient lubrication and heat dissipation in every driving condition, and especially for us 4 wheelers.

 

The problem lies in the sulfur additive--not friendly to brass synchronizers... I ran 10w30 for a year and a half with no ill effects. I changed all of my fluids a month or so ago and everything looked great. I did however refill with GL3 since i had some in my garage and had ran the motor oil to test the waters so to speak. I too was skeptical about the whole motor oil deal until i spoke to a service adviser at Jeep! as well as seemingly endless searches on the web.

 

i have spent the past 2 days reading about oils and fluids.....and ended up more confused than i started.


im relatively confident that the motor takes a 5w30 or 10w30.....right?

the tcase takes Dex3.....that point has at least been hammered home to me


im lost on the rear diff though, im 90% sure mine is the cryco one.