The pics on the summit site are definitely deceiving, it definitely looks a lot better based on the Reese site. The metal looks a little thinner than the Curt or other 5,000lb. hitches (that is to be expected on a lower rated hitch, and either is probably thicker then the "frame" rail it attaches to), but otherwise is the same basic design and should be fine as long as you aren't pushing the towing limits of the XJ (while the XJ is rated to tow 5,000lbs. with a trans cooler, since they only weigh ~3,400lbs. anything beyond 3,500lbs. is definitely pushing it a bit when it comes to controllability and braking except for short/slow trips).

 

Looks like a great hitch.
I'll have to buy one.

 

Long Lost Thread-
Any advice on removing the rear bumper? I've read that both bumper brackets need to come off but mine are looking very rusty. I've sprayed with PBBlaster this afternoon but it seems like they will be hard to get a wrench or socket on from underneath. Is there any other way? I need to get a wrench on the bolt heads for the hitch (I didn't go with nutstrips).

Thanks!

 

Well, I kind of feel like I'm talking to myself but just in case others are putting a hitch on, I will continue.
Use lots of PB blaster on the bolts that hold the brackets to the rear body. There are four on each (2 on each side). It's a little hard to get at them. I used a 1/2" ratchet with a pipe to give some length and torque. I found I only had 7 bolts (one was broken off already). Whole bumper comes off. Then you can get at the frame channels where the top of the bolts will be that will hold your hitch. You can buy the nut strips but I was able to get a long 5/8" wrench down the channel and hold the bolt heads while tightening underneath. Pretty easy (maybe an hour or two depending on how much pre-soaking with PB Blaster you do.

I lucked out that the trailer harness was still behind the interior side panel.

Enjoy.

 

So the nut strips are optional? For some odd reason I have nut strips riveted on the passenger side but nothing on the driver's side.
Passenger

Driver


I need to get a hitch to take a uhaul to South Carolina from New Orleans.

 

I think I've seen that on other posts-no nutstrips on one side. Nuts and bolts work. Use Grade 8 fasteners. Don't them get too long as you'll have a hard time "flipping" them into the holes inside the channel. I used a flexible wire to pull each one through the hole and then held the bolt heads with a wrench will I tightened the nuts.

 

the nutstrip is present on the passenger side on 97 to 01 Cherokees because the rear most exhaust mount bolts through it, not sure about the 96 and down.

 

i have a 96, no nutstrip on either side.

thanks for the info GMC, you're not talking to yourself!! I'm about to attempt this in order to get to the nuts inside the frame rails. from the outside my bolts are spinning freely.

my hitch covers the underside of the bumper though, I think I will need to cut small access holes in the bumper from under in order to get a breaker bar in there. worst case scenario drill holes into the bumper to get an impact in there.

 

Post some pics if you can. Sounds like the nut has broken loose from the nut strip if you have those. I had a 1988 parts Cherokee and I could not get that hitch off for the life of me. Up here, the salt corrosion just welds things together. I wanted to re-use it on my 87 but ended up getting a used hitch from another Jeep guy.

 

Using nut strips will distribute the weight your pulling much better than just bolts and washer wich can pull thru frame.

 

Aftermarket nut strips are available by the way.

 

By choosing to NOT pull the bumper to remove a snapped off bolt nutstrip then the carriage bolt pull thru method has to be used.
-The old nutstrip needs to be unfastened from the frame channel.
-Then pushed toward the front of the frame channel out of the way...
for fishing the square washer/carriage bolt combos through the bolt holes via the opening of the frame channel near the rear bumber.

The 'potential' problem with the carriage bolt method is that the old nut strip could bounce around and rattle when hitting bumps.
I had this done on my XJ when the fuel tank skid plate had to be removed for a fuel pump replacement. Every dam bolt snapped.
That old nutstrip rattles when hitting certain bumps just right.

 

My hitch came with 1x1.5" steel square spacers that you run the bolt through and put the nut on the bottom so you don't need nut strips It also came with regular bolts and washers in case you wanted to use nut strips. My jeep had a nut strip on the right side but it had some bolts broke off in it so I pulled it out, I also cut a square out on each side at the back so I could get inside there better to feed the bolts in, the bumper covers it up so it's not a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMS-Class-3-...item2ee420e15e

 

When this is your trailing partner thiers no way spacers with bolts will take the abuse nut strips will when snatching 7,000 lbs with hitch.

 

Yes, yes, and yes. I would not consider towing anythnig near capacity without the nutstrips.

I just returned the JC Offroad strips. They looked flimsy to me. They are billed as 1/8" thick, which I thought was marginal, but when I got them, I measured them at a little LESS than 1/8", including the powder coat. Not good enough, and I don't like false advertising. If you say it's made from 1/8" steel, it had better be 1/8" steel. It's not a 2x4 which everyone knows is a nominal meausaremnt.

I have read that member XJWonders sells a good nutstrip. I'm going to check it out.