Well first off I bought a track bar from the local auto store (Auto-zone to be exact). After installing the track bar, it indeed made my death wobble go away (which made me VERY pleased of course), a couple of days later death wobble came back . I checked under the jeep again and looking at the track bar that was connected to the frame end, I noticed there was a little bit of space on the front view of the bushing ( i was able to fit my finger onto the space ) and feeling behind it there was no space to put my finger onto when i installed it, which made me believe that the bushing is supposed to sit all around equally (please clarify!)

the track bar bushing is made of very rubber-like material (kinda crappy imo) should i just go back to the auto store and buy a polyurethane bushing?

Also, Is the bolt supposed to move around? The bolt was not centered, so i applied some force to recenter the bolt.

-91 jeep cherokee i-6 4wd

 

that upper castle nut needs to be REALLY tight. I believe that the manual calls for 80ft lbs or something like that. I'd go for at least 90 ft lbs. Get it as tight as possible. Did you torque it originally? The tre boot/bushing doesn't do much to support it. If you retighten it you may find it's loose. That happened to me on my first replacement. The other thing, is the hole that the TRE end goes in wallowed at all? if it is get a new upper mount.

 

I agree with asatxj but in the future try to use AZ as a last resort. Use NAPA or O'Reilley's or even Advance but the stuff from AZ is usually inferior stuff.

 

do you have any lift is it a stock track bar.

 

no it has no lift and it is a stock track bar

 

then the setting should be 120 footpounds so make it tight. and if the hole is walloed replace the bracket

 

yes i did torque it originally
i was reading up and the upper arm called for 74 ft of torque, while the axle end called for 62 ft of torque. if it IS loose then am I S.O.L? is the cotter pin important as well? I don't think i put that on after i torqued it, I forgot.

source : http://www.gibnet.us/JeepMods/trackbar.htm (scroll to the bottom)

Haynes Manual says the axle mount end should be torqued to 74 ft-lbs, and the frame mount end to 62 ft-lbs.

 

oh and if you need a new bar get it from the dealer. some aftermarket guys will cheap out on stuff like tie rods and bushings

 

ok if its 120 then heck so be it, i'll see if i can tighten it up, the torque wrench i use is a pain trying to get onto that castle nut, especially trying to tighten it as well

 

yup the cotter pin keeps the nut from loosening it self so it is very important

 

i'll do that next time .. 60 bucks for this track bar, i thought it was working out well, but i guess not!! at least it has a lifetime warranty LMAO

 

when i replaced my unit it called for 120 but it is not a stock unit. and are you sure the tierod is not spinning when you are trying to tighten it

 

the ones for lifted aps are normally good but some of the guys who make stock replacements are cheep. i have never had issues with autozone so it could be some thing else giving you issues with it

 

no not at all, my torque wrench is pretty big, so i'm trying to fit it onto that frame mount and the tie rod, pitman arm, etc is in the way, its a big pain, but i did manage it before, so i'll have to try it again.

 

i would say worn out tires too, it keeps pulling towards the right, but i went to sears thinking it was only an alignment problem, so that could possibly be another problem, whats odd is it doesnt happen when i hit bumps, the death wobble comes back when i get over 65 mph +