Track Bar bracket bolts are rust welded on... need some advice.
#1
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Location: The Isle of Long, in happy and sunny New York.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Track Bar bracket bolts are rust welded on... need some advice.
I'm armed with the following shade-tree weapons....
- 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade
- sawsall with "Torch" blades
- PB Blaster
- 24" 1/2" breaker bar
- pry-bar
- MAP gas.
The two remaining bolts that connect the bottom of the bracket to the frame are rusted beyond any hope of easy removal. I am thinking of a few ways to attack this, but I don't know what will give me the best results. I don't care if I damage the bracket, I'm replacing it with a new IRO Double sheer set-up.
So.. what do you guys think... I was considering cutting off the whole bottom of the bracket to expos the two bolts, then drilling.. maybe cutting... grinding... I have no idea.
This is it... once these things are out, I can start rebuilding my front end... finally!
Thanks
JR
- 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade
- sawsall with "Torch" blades
- PB Blaster
- 24" 1/2" breaker bar
- pry-bar
- MAP gas.
The two remaining bolts that connect the bottom of the bracket to the frame are rusted beyond any hope of easy removal. I am thinking of a few ways to attack this, but I don't know what will give me the best results. I don't care if I damage the bracket, I'm replacing it with a new IRO Double sheer set-up.
So.. what do you guys think... I was considering cutting off the whole bottom of the bracket to expos the two bolts, then drilling.. maybe cutting... grinding... I have no idea.
This is it... once these things are out, I can start rebuilding my front end... finally!
Thanks
JR
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I'm armed with the following shade-tree weapons....
- 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade
- sawsall with "Torch" blades
- PB Blaster
- 24" 1/2" breaker bar
- pry-bar
- MAP gas.
The two remaining bolts that connect the bottom of the bracket to the frame are rusted beyond any hope of easy removal. I am thinking of a few ways to attack this, but I don't know what will give me the best results. I don't care if I damage the bracket, I'm replacing it with a new IRO Double sheer set-up.
So.. what do you guys think... I was considering cutting off the whole bottom of the bracket to expos the two bolts, then drilling.. maybe cutting... grinding... I have no idea.
This is it... once these things are out, I can start rebuilding my front end... finally!
Thanks
JR
- 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade
- sawsall with "Torch" blades
- PB Blaster
- 24" 1/2" breaker bar
- pry-bar
- MAP gas.
The two remaining bolts that connect the bottom of the bracket to the frame are rusted beyond any hope of easy removal. I am thinking of a few ways to attack this, but I don't know what will give me the best results. I don't care if I damage the bracket, I'm replacing it with a new IRO Double sheer set-up.
So.. what do you guys think... I was considering cutting off the whole bottom of the bracket to expos the two bolts, then drilling.. maybe cutting... grinding... I have no idea.
This is it... once these things are out, I can start rebuilding my front end... finally!
Thanks
JR
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
I don't have any air tools
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A trick an old Indian taught me was to heat the bolt (MAP is good) and hold a candle to the mating surface of the structure and the bolt head. The candle wax will melt and suck into the gap between the bolt and the structure. Try tightening the bolt a little, then loosen a little, each time loosening a tad more. Repeat process slowly.
I have used this process sucessfully many times over the years,.
Good luck.
Edit: The Indian's name was Roy Jakeway. He passed away a couple of years ago.
I have used this process sucessfully many times over the years,.
Good luck.
Edit: The Indian's name was Roy Jakeway. He passed away a couple of years ago.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
If you mean this...
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...a=00931305000P
That's now my Father's Day gift!!! Thanks! Looks like the reviews on it are really good + your personal experience... I'm getting one tomorrow.
Thanks!
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...a=00931305000P
That's now my Father's Day gift!!! Thanks! Looks like the reviews on it are really good + your personal experience... I'm getting one tomorrow.
Thanks!
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#9
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
If you mean this...
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...a=00931305000P
That's now my Father's Day gift!!! Thanks! Looks like the reviews on it are really good + your personal experience... I'm getting one tomorrow.
Thanks!
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...a=00931305000P
That's now my Father's Day gift!!! Thanks! Looks like the reviews on it are really good + your personal experience... I'm getting one tomorrow.
Thanks!
#10
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Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
On really rusty bolts and nuts penetrant may need a week or two and spraying every few days. Torch is way faster, but can be more destructive. As SeriousOffroad suggested, try to tighten the bolt first, then loosen. In tight areas where you can't stick a 3-7 foot pipe on it, impact or torch is sometimes the only way. Whatever you're putting back in, coat it with anti seize so you don't have to deal with it again.
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