Hey, Im wondering if there is some sort of manual that shows all the torque specs for my '99. Im going to be replacing the leafs tomorrow, and my Haynes manual only says "torque to manufacturer specs" or something. Right now I need the specs on the leaf main bolts & u-bolts, but it would be nice to know if there is a manual or something out there that gives all the specs for everything like valve cover, head, etc. Thanks!

 

This site helped me, but the data only goes up to 1996. It may be of some help

http://www.kelleyswip.com/torque.html

 

I just turned around and saw a paper 1999 FSM on the shelf - so I should have the specs on my site (I only pull data from FSM or other factory/manufacturer literature. I have Haynes & Chilton's, but I sometimes find they disagree with FSM - and sometimes with each other as well!)

Nota Bene -
- If using never-seez, reduce final installation preload torque by half to account for the lubricity of the never-seez. Since you're reducing friction between the mating threads, it takes much less torque (turning force) to achieve the same preload (tensile stress.)
- Tighten fasteners finger-tight or so when they go through bushings. Set the vehicle back on the ground. Go around the vehicle, and "bounce" each corner good and hard and let the vehicle settle. Then, torque the fasteners to spec with all four wheels on the ground. This reduces or eliminates torsional preload in the bushings - and torsional preload on suspension bushings can (and usually does) lead to premature bushing failure. This applies to "rubber" or poly bushings, greasable or dry.
- If at all possible for you, use new quality screws on reassembly - skip China altogether, look at Pacific Rim with a jaundiced eye (methinks they're flagging...) and go with US, Canada, or European manufacturers. Most time, I'll order Holo-Krome or SPS/Ubrako from MSC Direct, if I can get fastener specs beforehand. Use the same property class/strength grade as what came out (it's OK to go higher on suspension, but never lower!) and make sure the mating threads are sound. New fasteners in critical areas are cheap insurance that should be bought.
- Don't bother with split lockwashers - they aren't worth a damn. If you want a mechanical locking device, use "star" washers, as their teeth will actually grip the surfaces (split locks merely flatten. They're cheap because they suck.) Alternatively, you can use LocTite (#242 preferred - it's strong enough to hold, but light enough to break loose with effort. #222 won't hold very well, and stronger grades tend to require heat to break loose.)

 

Oh - then I haven't gotten 1999 data in yet. If you want, give me the specs you need and a day or so to look them up for you.

 

Check out this site, it should have the details you need.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowled...ex.htm#service