Tips on how to replace washer fluid pumps (front and rear)
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Tips on how to replace washer fluid pumps (front and rear)
If your wiper washer squeals and whines, the motor will die eventually.
My rear died, so I replaced both of them at the same time. $15/ea.
The pumps are located under the front driver's wheel fender liner.
In front of the driver's front wheel.
Take the 10 minutes to remove the front wheel.
It's worth it.
The fender liner is annoying to remove.
You really need to yank it out from under the fender lip.
Keep looking for the 4 or 5 plastic rivets.
There are also studs that the liner hangs on.
Detach the entire front half of the liner and let it hang.
You will not regret it. It's too rigid to just move aside.
This tool is worth having.
It works better than those pry trim interior tools.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769160
The pumps are in a tight space.
I used small Channellocks to grab them and unseat pull them out.
The directions were incomprehensible.
I had no idea about polarity and which connected to which.
So, I guessed, and filled the reservoir with a few ounces and tested.
I assume if the polarity is backwards, the motor will push the fluid back into the reservoir.
So, test the wipers washers before closing it all back up.
Reinstalling was worse, since the replacement motor was bigger.
I was just able to jam it in there, and used a screwdriver to pry it into place.
I kept the original seals, since space was so tight. I did not see leaks on testing.
My rear died, so I replaced both of them at the same time. $15/ea.
The pumps are located under the front driver's wheel fender liner.
In front of the driver's front wheel.
Take the 10 minutes to remove the front wheel.
It's worth it.
The fender liner is annoying to remove.
You really need to yank it out from under the fender lip.
Keep looking for the 4 or 5 plastic rivets.
There are also studs that the liner hangs on.
Detach the entire front half of the liner and let it hang.
You will not regret it. It's too rigid to just move aside.
This tool is worth having.
It works better than those pry trim interior tools.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769160
The pumps are in a tight space.
I used small Channellocks to grab them and unseat pull them out.
The directions were incomprehensible.
I had no idea about polarity and which connected to which.
So, I guessed, and filled the reservoir with a few ounces and tested.
I assume if the polarity is backwards, the motor will push the fluid back into the reservoir.
So, test the wipers washers before closing it all back up.
Reinstalling was worse, since the replacement motor was bigger.
I was just able to jam it in there, and used a screwdriver to pry it into place.
I kept the original seals, since space was so tight. I did not see leaks on testing.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 12-15-2018 at 10:43 AM.
#4
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
1 minute to drag it over to the car.
1 minute to go back and grab the breaker bar
2 minutes to go back and get the right sized socket and loosen all lugs
2 minutes to bend down and find the jacking point and line it up
1 minute to put the headlamp that fell off your head back on.
1 minute to jack it up
1 minute get the jackstand and line it up and let the car down onto jackstand.
1 minute to go grab impact driver
1 minute to remove lugs and roll the wheel aside.
-----------------------------------------
12 minutes to remove a wheel.
Entire job will take you 4 minutes in internet muscles time.
It took me about 45 mins.
#5
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1 minutes to get the jack cleared from all the stuff piled on it
1 minute to drag it over to the car.
1 minute to go back and grab the breaker bar
2 minutes to go back and get the right sized socket and loosen all lugs
2 minutes to bend down and find the jacking point and line it up
1 minute to put the headlamp that fell off your head back on.
1 minute to jack it up
1 minute get the jackstand and line it up and let the car down onto jackstand.
1 minute to go grab impact driver
1 minute to remove lugs and roll the wheel aside.
-----------------------------------------
12 minutes to remove a wheel.
Entire job will take you 4 minutes in internet muscles time.
It took me about 45 mins.
1 minute to drag it over to the car.
1 minute to go back and grab the breaker bar
2 minutes to go back and get the right sized socket and loosen all lugs
2 minutes to bend down and find the jacking point and line it up
1 minute to put the headlamp that fell off your head back on.
1 minute to jack it up
1 minute get the jackstand and line it up and let the car down onto jackstand.
1 minute to go grab impact driver
1 minute to remove lugs and roll the wheel aside.
-----------------------------------------
12 minutes to remove a wheel.
Entire job will take you 4 minutes in internet muscles time.
It took me about 45 mins.
Good job on the work man. Completing a task is always fun.
#7
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I removed my fender liners when I trimmed my fenders, so I could legitimately replace mine in 2-3 minutes. But that is with lift + big tires + trimmed fenders, so not a fair comparison.
Some things take longer but as long as they get done, who the hell cares
Some things take longer but as long as they get done, who the hell cares
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#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
You need to get the customer's key.
You need to go to the parking lot.
You need to open the bay door.
You need to drive the car into the bay.
You need to line up the lift post under the frame rails.
You need to push the lift lever and raise the car.
You need to get the correct socket.
You need to get the air ratchet
THEN.....you remove the 5 lugs in under a minute.
Go ahead and time yourself next time.
I did not remove my wheel, but I should have.
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No, you can not remove a wheel in less than a minute.
You need to get the customer's key.
You need to go to the parking lot.
You need to open the bay door.
You need to drive the car into the bay.
You need to line up the lift post under the frame rails.
You need to push the lift lever and raise the car.
You need to get the correct socket.
You need to get the air ratchet
THEN.....you remove the 5 lugs in under a minute.
Go ahead and time yourself next time.
I did not remove my wheel, but I should have.
You need to get the customer's key.
You need to go to the parking lot.
You need to open the bay door.
You need to drive the car into the bay.
You need to line up the lift post under the frame rails.
You need to push the lift lever and raise the car.
You need to get the correct socket.
You need to get the air ratchet
THEN.....you remove the 5 lugs in under a minute.
Go ahead and time yourself next time.
I did not remove my wheel, but I should have.
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Yea, they're the same.
The Anco comes with wiring adapters, if needed.
One of mine plugged straight into the pump.
The other needed the adapter. Weird.
The Anco comes with wiring adapters, if needed.
One of mine plugged straight into the pump.
The other needed the adapter. Weird.
#13
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
PUMP, Washer, Windshield
4778 347 Front
4778 348 Rear
#14
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thank you, this really helped i had no idea these were hiden in the inner driver side fender. got the front working now but the rear seems to have something wrong with the switch in the dash think i need a new switch for that one.
marc
marc
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Do you know how to test the switch with a multimeter?
You put in on voltage setting, and you plug the prongs into the wiring harness that plugs onto the motor. That way, you see if there is a voltage when you press the switch.
You put in on voltage setting, and you plug the prongs into the wiring harness that plugs onto the motor. That way, you see if there is a voltage when you press the switch.