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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Pretty new here but just noticed something that threw me off. So I recently acquired a "new to me" 98 Cherokee Limited 4.0L. Was doing the standard plug, wires, rotor, and cap change out right? Well after putting everything on and in the correct order of "what it should be," I go to crank it. Turns over 3-4 times and backfires. Boom. Immediately I knew the order was wrong. Or was it?? I decide to pull the manual up for a double check. Viewing the picture of the distributor cap and the placement of the screws i noticed it had been turned. Instead of the screw on the right holding the distributor cap on facing the 5 o' clock position its more along the lines of 3 o' clock. I also noticed the rotor was facing 1 o' clock instead of 5 o' clock. Repositioned the wires and she fired up. Real rough idle and missing upon take off and getting back on the throttle. I'm thinking the timing is off and the distributor was put in wrong by some knucklehead. Would you guys assume the same?
Last edited by xj_sheepdog; Dec 11, 2016 at 02:47 PM.
The books and diagrams are wrong. #1 is at 5:00 as viewed from the side. (where your diagram has #4) 153624 clockwise and you are good to go! The puter' does the timing, dizzy normally will not turn.
So essentially drawing an imaginary line horizontally on the cap, the two cap screws should be directly on that line with 1 in 4s position? what about the rotor? it should be pointed at the 1 at 5 o' clock correct?
EZEARL, Notice the screw by number 5? The screws on mine are essentially where number 3 and 4 are in the picture you posted. That and the internal rotor are throwing me off. Aside from the obvious crap idle and missing on take off.
None of that matters if you didn't pull the dizy. The rotor will be wherever it stopped when you killed the engine. On my 90 the screws point to about the center of the front of the valve cover. Just plug in the wires right and you are good to go...
There's like a "foot" at the base where the dizzy mounts. This keeps the dizzy from turning. If someone sawed that off you have an different issue to deal with. If you CAN turn the dizzy, you might set it with the screws pointing just left of center of the front of the valve cover for now, until it's sorted out right.
Ahh ok I see what you guys are saying. The idle and missing is killing me. I need to get a reader on it. The following is a pic of mine. I finally went out to take a pic. Stuck on 24 hour shift at the moment and this issue I can't stop thinking about it.
Here's a pic you can use for reference. The red pin punch is used for indexing the distributor. What I wanted to show you is the relationship of #1 cap terminal (modified cap) to the cap hold down screws. Note that the cap has a square and a round alignment feature for installing the cap. If you install the cap properly with the square on square and round on round you can't dick up. Note also where #1 is.
Thanks for all the info guys. Will resume this process tomorrow. I will be checking plug wires to ensure that non are bad and if everything checks out its on to check for vacuum leaks.
Thanks for all the info guys. Will resume this process tomorrow. I will be checking plug wires to ensure that non are bad and if everything checks out its on to check for vacuum leaks.
Make sure plug wires do not touch each other and run parallel with each other if they touch. Auto parts store sell wire separators.
The OEM separators are pretty neat. See the pic EZEARL posted.