So, even though I knew my radiator was going south while standing at the counter to get one for our Disco - I blew it off. Today, it blew me off.

Too bad too as the only current problm is the return line neck is cracked where an ape at Interstate Battery yanked on the line to get the new battery in for my wife.

Oh well.

So now I'm looking at the Performance radiator site to pick one up on the way to the shop tomorrow and see three options:

#1 Cheap at $118.00
#2 Intermediate at $158.00
#3 Expensive at $281.00

The first and second show exactly the same on a "product comparison" sheet while the third one different in core, tanks, thickness and width.
------------------thickness--------width--------tank---------core
#1 and #2-------1 7/16---------10 7/16------plastic------aluminum
#3------------------3/4----------10 11/16-----brass------copper/brass

The old timer in me wants the copper/brass unit. Is there any known real-world advantage or disadvantage to one of these old school designs.

One thing I hold as a disadvantage is the effect of Arizona on plastic but aside from that, cost and the repairability of copper/brass I'm drawing a blank in preference.

Any perspectives or lessons learned on the difference between the two types of radiators when both are available?

 

Virtually every vehicle produced today has a aluminum core plastic tank rad installed when it leaves the factory. That says something about how rad design/efficieny has changed since copper/brass rads were installed in Model Ts.

 

I look at it this way, my stock radiator has lasted 15 years. So the cheaper one SHOULD last a few years. You could also get one from a JY- get a warranty, pressure test it then install it.

$40 buck or less but you have to pull it.

My '98 has a pinhole leak at the top.

I think most parts now a days are built to fail. But I can't complain after 15 years.

 

Before installing a JY rad, probably should have a rad shop pull it apart and rod it out. That is likely to cost more than $+/-110 a new OE style rad from the auto parts store.

 

I don't mind paying for a new one and would be a little leery of one out of an Arizona yard. I get motorcycle parts from a scrapper and the heat, sun and lack of use play hell on parts here.

As to the standardized use of plastic/aluminum... I get that and the note that mine lasted this long and would no doubt have lasted longer is an important one. Were it not for the brute at the battery shop yanking and pulling at the neck I wouldn't even be considering a change.

I guess the copper/brass isn't really necessary outside of maybe a third world nation where it's easier to repair than the other not to mention difficult to replace.

I'm certainly happy with how all of my factory ones have performed to date - other than the cracked neck and I guess that might have happened on a metal one. Of course, then I could just repair it myself where I don't think I trust most of the plastic repair kits.

 

I can see how an old school copper/brass rad could have a repair advantage but I think the #1 advantage of a aluminum rad is it's design/cooling efficiency.

 

Just installed one of these, CSF 3 row from amazon, very pleased.

 

X2 on this. I've had one of those for about a year now and it works great and appears to be very well made.

As for cooling efficiency, most copper/brass rads are 2 or 3 row vs. single row for stock aluminum/Plastic rad so they cool as well or better (export XJs for the middle east came with 2 row copper/brass rads). Now a 2 or 3 row aluminum rad will cool even better but those are ridiculously expensive (~$600).

 

Thanks again fellas. So, we're looking at aluminum for efficiency rather than expense.

I like the note on that three row option Cobra but don't think I have the time since the Land Rover is in the shop and I can pick up a radiator on the way to our shop this morning.