Driver-side tie rod end has some play in it. How would one go about remedying this in a parking lot with hand tools? I've checked with three shops and the lowest quote was $175. If I can't do it myself, I'll just continue ignoring it. Please explain to me as you would a child (pictures help!)

 

If it fails, you will crash. It requires new tie rods. Get it done soon.

 

A 3/4" wrench and a big hammer hit next to tierod...

 

yup ^

count the turns when you remove the old one and turn the new one in the same amount of turns. if it is the same tie rod end, which it should be, then your alignment shouldn't be altered.
but take it to an alignment shop for any adjustments when done.

very easy job. i would say a 2-3 on a scale of 5 for difficulty.
don't forget to put in a new cotter pin when done and grease it up as soon as you can.

 

Thanks, guys. What needs to be removed to do this? Is it just the wheel, or is there more? I'm in the office and can't go look right now.

 

You wil need to remove the wheel, set it up on jackstands, and then remove the tie rods. Try and find something called a ball joint pickle fork at the parts store. It is something you hammer into the joints to separate them.

Make sure to have new cotter pins ready on hand as some will break. Also try to get the new tie rods close to the same length as the old one.

After you get the tie rod replaced, go for an alignment.

 

I base all my susp ideas on a picture someone once posted here [attached]. I understand there's one tie rod, yes? I ask because you said "tie rods."


So I:

• Remove the wheel
• Unbolt the tie rod, or just the tie rod end?
• Replace end
• Reassemble
• Get alignment

Right? Should I look for any certain cotter pins, a certain size bolt in case it breaks, or anything else I may need? Also, where and why do I grease it when I'm done? Once I start, I won't be going anywhere til it's done, so I wanna be ready.

 

Why must the wheels be removed to replace TRE's? Especially if it is the tie rod TRE that connects to the drag link?
Your new TRE will come with a new castle nut and cotter pin.
Since you are down there you can adjust your toe since the tie rod is mostly what is used to adjust it.
With a np231 t-case spec is front of tires are to be approx 1/16-1/8" in from the rear of the tires.
How you do this is measure, jack up axle so wheels are off the ground, adjust tie rod, lower axle and measure, When done tighten the nuts on the tie rod and you are good to go.

 

if you talking about the drag link in light blue you have to replace the whole arm

 

As freegdr said if it was the drag link great news you just remove the old one (get a pickle fork, 10 bucks at most autozones) and install the new. If its the tie rod ends than you have to remove the wheel, knock it loose with the pickle fork, take a measuring tape and measure from tie rod end to tie rod end, then unscrew the old and screw the new on till you reach your original measurement, tighten down the lock nut and reinstall the tie rod end.

 

Thanks for the replies/help. It is the driver-side TRE (the one you can't see in that pic). I was thinking backward earlier, sorry. To remove the end, is the pickle fork necessary or just helpful? I have a BFH if that'd be enough

 

bfh will work hit the part it bolts thru on the axlt leave the nut still on but very loose so it dont just fall out and slam the ground loosen the adjuster nut on collar and back it out count the turns it requires to take out ,install new one same amount of turns,tighten collar back up, that parts about 40 dollars,one note good time to upgrade the tie rod to the beefier grand cherokee v8 model if its in the wallet to do so

 

I've just been readin up on the ZJ upgrade. For once, it's a matter of time instead of money. I'm gonna try to hit up a JY tomorrow or Tues if I can find someone to go with. If I make it out there, I'll see what I can find. If not, I'll just replace the TRE for now. When you say "so it dont just fall out and slam the ground," you mean the tie rod? I'll just drop a jack stand under it.

 

ya the tie rod

 

If you plan on reusing a part, don't separate it with the pickle fork. Those pickle forks are practically designed rip the rubber boot, which are usually not sold separately. It really sucks when you need to spend some $$ on a new part when its the $0.25 part of the part that broke...