but why would a small leak in the water pump cause it that quick to climb in temp*? that kinda is odd. i sure hope it isnt warped now. otherwise you will not ever get it to seal. i think the pump itself is broken. iv had leaks before and it never overheated though.

 

Going back to the old question... Was the pump you put in new, rebuilt, used? I don't believe the small leak is causing it to overheat. We needed to find out if it was leaking from the weap hole on the bottom of the pump or the actual sealing surface. Due to the leak that will have to come back off. Something is not right with the install.
I'm not sure why anyone would think the air would self bleed out of these systems. I burp mine by squeezing the top radiator hose to get the last bit of air out. The manual states this as well.
What have you checked since your last post? I assume you have done some thinking and checked the fluid level and so on like we discussed. What did you find?

 

I have done everything that I could possible think of, and the water pump was brand new. I put a new clutch fan in, new t-stat new liquid drained it and everything. So I don't have a clue why it is still doing this unless the sending unit is gone bad because it has never bubbled over or anything, never over heated.

 

Zach:
I'm not asking to be nosy but where do you live? Do you live in Michigan? I live Grand Haven, which is on the West Side of the state. If you are anywhere close to here I will come over and help you.
Mike

 

Sure don't man I really appreciate the help though but I live in Kentucky.

 

Your welcome...
Maybe one of the guys reading this will live near you and could stop by.

In my opinion, since we have the leak around the water pump and the leak will most likely only get worse... it has to come back off. I know that's not what you want to hear... But at this point in the game it will allow us to start fresh with a properly flushed and filled coolant system and so on.
I believe you or someone said a shop put the water pump on? Is that correct? If they did that guy was right, you would have every recourse to take it back and have it done correctly. Tell them you want or maybe they will give you a complete coolant system flush for your trouble.
That may take care of the problem. It's a good place to start.
Once you know those problems are eliminated, which at this point I don't think we can be certain they are, then we can go from there.
Maybe someone else will pipe in with iother suggestions. Better yet hopefully someone lives near you and can stop by...
Here is some reading material for you in the mean time.
BURPING the COOLING SYSTEM
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...BurpAirMod.htm
WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT
http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp

 

i gotta say i would still take the pump back if possible. sorry i know it is new and all but there is obviously an issue still in the system. give me a break down off every think done again and what hes been replaced. sorry if it is being repetitive but i just cant see it over heating that bad unless either the fan is not working the pump is not working or the hoses are blocked.

 

did they put a pump with the wrong rotation in. i am not sure if it can be doen but that might also be causing the issue.

 

OK I drained the system, put new fluid in changed the t-stat, put a new clutch fan in, and it still overheats for some odd reason, I took off both rad hoses when I flushed it and pushed all of the coolant out. So know I guess I will have to replace the water pump again...SSHHHWWWW. Which direction should the blades be on the pump. And I really apprecaite all of your guys input.

 

Did we confirm the t stat was facing the right way?

 

Yea its the right way, and I installed my own water pump.

 

I replaced a thermostat on my XJ today. After flushing radiator and engine block, I topped it off with full strength antifreeze. I figured it'll just dilute with water left in the block. Several minutes after starting engine, the plastic fan turned on and I heard a chime and saw my xj engine temp indicator showing about 230F. I immediately shut the engine and pretty much knew that I had air pocket in the thermostat area. After 30 minutes, I pulled the heater hose from the thermostat housing and added antifreeze through the radiator. I was amazed that it took another gallon before topping out at both heater hose connection and the radiator. All worked fine after that.

On the side note, I replaced from 195F to 180F thermostat. My temp gauge use to show 210F and now about 180F.

 

i will check tonight and let you know. is this a dd or no

 

sorry did you run the heater to make sure it had fluid going to it not air. it can hold a bit of fluid as well

 

Question: When you start it and it comes up to temp are both the top and bottom radiator hoses hot once the thermostat opens up? You could start it up and wait until it gets to 210 on your gage. That is where that stat should open and both radiator hoses will quickly reach the same temp as coolant is allowed to flow through the system.
Can you try that and let us know?