So I found out on my way into work today that the seal on my transfer case has gone bad. It looks like the leak is coming from the top. I could hear the chain and a loud squealing as I was getting closer to work. I have fluid in my cargo area right now(was planning on doing a drain and fill this weekend) and will be ordering a rebuild kit. Could I fill the Tcase from the vent hose to get it home from work(25 miles) or do I need to stop and pick up a set of hex keys and top it off from the fill port?

thanks

 

Don't know if it will fill that way or not. No way for the air to escape.

 

If you have an adjustable wrench, you can unscrew the mode switch and fill there. It's a a tight fit what with the DS in the way, but if you have sockets too you can drop the DS.

 

i agree with above i would fill from vent tube. youre likely to cause bigger problems if to much pressure builds up. and also with try taking the sensor out putting enough fluid in to get where you need to go

 

I was able to fill from the vent tube. Still sounds terrible, but I feel better knowing it's being lubed right now. I'm gunna get it up on stands when I get home and check for play in the rear end. Everything seemed fine when I changed fluid two weeks ago, but you never know. The sound definitely seems like its coming from under/behind me, but its hard to tell in a jeep

 

good luck to ya man

 

So this is where I sit. I got the back off the he ground and the tc in neutral. Spinning the rear wheels I'm getting noise from this cap on the output shaft. I noticed that it's rubbing on the shaft and causing the screeching noise. Is this just a protective cap, or is this part of the seal?

 

they call that tin shield an oil slinger/ the output shaft seal is behind that. #4798117 for a 242 transfer case and a 231 case. my guess is the seal is shot.

 

the rubbing or squeaking could be the output shaft bearing #4338892AB from dodge

 

That slinger should be pressed onto the transfer case output shaft. It should not be able to make noise on its own. If it's colliding with the tail housing the bearing is definitely done for.

 

Good to know. I picked up a new bearing and seal for the rear. I'll be doing that tomorrow as well as one of the ujoints on the driveshaft. I'm not entirely positive of how to drop the transfer case, but since I'm just replacing the bearing and seal and remaking the gasket for the case, I might not have to pull the entire thing?

 

you shouldnt have to pull the whole thing. the tail shaft housing should come off by itself with out having to remove the whole case. good luck keep us updated

 

I can see that the main housing seal has gone. I knew it had weeped at some point, but I must have dislodged the mud that had kept it sealed, so I'll be pulling the back half off and giving it a good cleaning. I can also inspect the chain for excessive wear and stretch.

 

Yeah, technically the bearing is just in the tail cone but if you're ripping the rear half off that's the wiser way to go. You can inspect the gears and clean out the oil pump pickup too. The NP231 is really quite straightforward if you have a good set of lock/snap ring pliers.

Oh yes, if you want, there are replacement fill plugs that have a "normal" hex head. CCKen has posted them a few times with accompanying NAPA part numbers.

 

Here's the NAPA plugs.





Recommend an OEM slinger. Aftermarket slingers, like Crown, are too far out of spec (ID). OEM is bad enough...got to heat it up with a heat gun to expand the slinger so it will go on, but at least it will go on.


Here's what I use to install the slinger. 6", 1-1/2" diameter, sink drain extension pipe with a flare on the end that goes against the slinger. The wood is to pound on with a hammer.