switching to synthetic

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May 16, 2014 | 11:41 AM
  #136  
Quote: The 258 is not a 4.0. Just sayin.......
Of course not. It is, however, an evolution of the 258. Anyone who knows the performance characteristics of the 4.0 should be able to affectionately refer to it as a tractor motor. Lighten up ppl! It's just a joke.
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May 16, 2014 | 03:45 PM
  #137  
Quote:
Of course not. It is, however, an evolution of the 258. Anyone who knows the performance characteristics of the 4.0 should be able to affectionately refer to it as a tractor motor. Lighten up ppl! It's just a joke.
X2
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May 16, 2014 | 09:33 PM
  #138  
I heard you can get gonorrhea from a tractor.
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May 16, 2014 | 11:26 PM
  #139  
Quote: I heard you can get gonorrhea from a tractor.
I heard the same thing about empty rotella jugs.
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May 17, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #140  
Hey guys it's been a few days since my last post. I've been wanting to switch over my oil to rotella but not sure if I should go with the t5 or t6 and which viscosity? Our winters aren't so bad but can get to 0°. summers get a high as 90° but average around 80-90. What should I use for winter and what should I use for summer? Thanks in advance fellas.
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May 17, 2014 | 03:00 PM
  #141  
About like our year around temps. I run T6 5W40 w/a NAPA Gold filter all year in 3 vehicles.
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May 17, 2014 | 03:02 PM
  #142  
Use the lowest 1st number (0WXX or 5WXX year round).
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May 17, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #143  
Quote: About like our year around temps. I run T6 5W40 w/a NAPA Gold filter all year in 3 vehicles.
Is this the synthetic blend bottle, synthetic, or conventional? Would the full synthetic find leaks?
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May 17, 2014 | 05:23 PM
  #144  
Quote: Use the lowest 1st number (0WXX or 5WXX year round).
Why do I see a lot of people running 15-40? Seems like it would be hard on the engine on start ups?
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May 17, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #145  
It is. It's not so bad when it's summer but violates the engineering specifications when it's cold out.

T6 is the blue bottle full synthetic.
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May 17, 2014 | 05:52 PM
  #146  
Quote: It is. It's not so bad when it's summer but violates the engineering specifications when it's cold out.

T6 is the blue bottle full synthetic.
Alright, so I should be good running t6 full synthetic 5-40 all year round? What if I went with 5-30? Also would the synthetic find leaks just like it would with Amy other oil?
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May 17, 2014 | 06:01 PM
  #147  
5w40 is fine for year-round use. If you can find 0w40 even better. 5w30 is also fine for year-round use.

The rate at which oils "find" leaks varies between brands and engines. I can't tell you from here if your engine will leak on a specific oil. Generally if you have a leak you should fix it instead of covering it up...
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May 17, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #148  
Quote: 5w40 is fine for year-round use. If you can find 0w40 even better. 5w30 is also fine for year-round use.

The rate at which oils "find" leaks varies between brands and engines. I can't tell you from here if your engine will leak on a specific oil. Generally if you have a leak you should fix it instead of covering it up...
yea I have I rear main leak. If I switch to synthetic it'll probably leak more. I would rather stay conventional, I hear t5 is a synthetic blend? Does rotella have a plain 10-30 dyno oil? If so how good would that be?
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May 17, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #149  
If you're puking oil out of your rear main seal, maybe you ought to buy economically priced oil so you don't go broke dumping extra quarts on the pavement.
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May 17, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #150  
Quote: Why do I see a lot of people running 15-40? Seems like it would be hard on the engine on start ups?
'Cause 15W40 is cheap, been around forever, available everywhere and the ones that use it have never read Motor Oil 101 or understand it if they have read it. They don't understand/grasp that 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 and straight 40 are all 40 at operating temp. The lower the 1st number, the quicker/easier the oil will flow when it's below operating temp.
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