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switching to synthetic

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Old May 17, 2014 | 06:26 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by jopez_89
yea I have I rear main leak. If I switch to synthetic it'll probably leak more. I would rather stay conventional, I hear t5 is a synthetic blend? Does rotella have a plain 10-30 dyno oil? If so how good would that be?

Might want to read about this. Comes in 5W30. There is also a blend in the same weight:
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ic-motor-oil/3
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Old May 17, 2014 | 06:46 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Might want to read about this. Comes in 5W30. There is also a blend in the same weight:
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ic-motor-oil/3
Looks like a great product. What would be the difference between this and say Mobil 1 high mileage? Both have the anti leak chemicals that recondition the seals and clean.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #153  
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What do you guys think about Pennzoil high mileage? I hear a lot of bad things about Pennzoil and dont see why it's so bad.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by jopez_89
Looks like a great product. What would be the difference between this and say Mobil 1 high mileage? Both have the anti leak chemicals that recondition the seals and clean.

Valvoline is $2.50 cheaper then Mobile 1 at Walmart.

I believe Pennzoil High Mileage oil is a conventional oil.

Don't over think this oil selection thing. Get the right weight oil and a GOOD filter and you'll be fine.

Last edited by EZEARL; May 17, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:04 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by djb383
'Cause 15W40 is cheap, been around forever, available everywhere and the ones that use it have never read Motor Oil 101 or understand it if they have read it. They don't understand/grasp that 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 and straight 40 are all 40 at operating temp. The lower the 1st number, the quicker/easier the oil will flow when it's below operating temp.
about 25 seconds into the vid is a good demonstration of the first number..


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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:36 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by s346k
about 25 seconds into the vid is a good demonstration of the first number..


Great video! I'll definitely give rotella t6 full synthetic a try. I just hope it doesn't create or make my RMS leak worse. Is this t6 available in 10w30? I want to stick to the recommended weight.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #157  
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Looks like the 10w30 is only available in the t5 which is the synthetic blend, could be wrong tho.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:42 PM
  #158  
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the t6 is only 5-40 I believe. it leaked less than the 5-30 conventional oil I used prior. fix the leak(s). I haven't done anything more rewarding to this jeep. that feeling of accomplishment every time I return to my jeep to find clean asphalt/concrete whatever underneath it is priceless. with that being said I noticed my front main (recently replaced) is starting to weep. sob..
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Old May 17, 2014 | 08:26 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by s346k
the t6 is only 5-40 I believe. it leaked less than the 5-30 conventional oil I used prior. fix the leak(s). I haven't done anything more rewarding to this jeep. that feeling of accomplishment every time I return to my jeep to find clean asphalt/concrete whatever underneath it is priceless. with that being said I noticed my front main (recently replaced) is starting to weep. sob..
I would assume the t5 has all the same benefits of the t6 so it wouldn't really matter right? Only difference between them is one is full synthetic while the other is a blend.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #160  
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Not really. There are a lot of differences. A thread that explains them has been posted about 12,000 times now lol
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Old May 17, 2014 | 08:50 PM
  #161  
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^^^^^THIS^^^^^ Read the freaking thread it will tell you all you ever wanted to know about oil and then some.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 08:51 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by s346k
about 25 seconds into the vid is a good demonstration of the first number..


Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic product video - YouTube
......but some folks just can't grasp it......even when it's in a video and/or when a PhD/MD (Dr. A E Haas - Motor Oil 101) clearly/slowly explains the importance of the 1st number.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 09:59 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by djb383
......but some folks just can't grasp it......even when it's in a video and/or when a PhD/MD (Dr. A E Haas - Motor Oil 101) clearly/slowly explains the importance of the 1st number.
I understand the importance of the first number. The lower the number 0,5, or 10 the faster it flows with 0 flowing faster. Correct me if I'm wrong, But an increase in flow would mean a decrease in pressure and vice versa right? So a 0w would flow faster to the top but not protect as much because of the decrease in pressure And pressure is created by the Clarences between moving parts???

Last edited by jopez_89; May 17, 2014 at 10:01 PM.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 10:14 PM
  #164  
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Just use the weight the owners manual says. Done.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 10:26 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by jopez_89
I understand the importance of the first number. The lower the number 0,5, or 10 the faster it flows with 0 flowing faster. Correct me if I'm wrong, But an increase in flow would mean a decrease in pressure and vice versa right? So a 0w would flow faster to the top but not protect as much because of the decrease in pressure And pressure is created by the Clarences between moving parts???
No.

When oil is cold it's ****ing thick. There's no way around that. The difference in viscosity between 40°C and 100°C is normally an order of magnitude. The engines are designed and oil chosen for a certain level of protection at operating temperature. Below operating temperature, the oil is just really ****ing thick. Period.

The first number represents how an oil did on a series of "How impossible is this to pump when it's really freeze your ***** off cold?" tests.

Just buy a 0w30, 5w30, 0w40, or 5w40 and stop worrying about it.
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