switching to synthetic
Might want to read about this. Comes in 5W30. There is also a blend in the same weight:
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ic-motor-oil/3
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Joined: Apr 2014
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Might want to read about this. Comes in 5W30. There is also a blend in the same weight:
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ic-motor-oil/3
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ic-motor-oil/3
Valvoline is $2.50 cheaper then Mobile 1 at Walmart.
I believe Pennzoil High Mileage oil is a conventional oil.
Don't over think this oil selection thing. Get the right weight oil and a GOOD filter and you'll be fine.
Last edited by EZEARL; May 17, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
'Cause 15W40 is cheap, been around forever, available everywhere and the ones that use it have never read Motor Oil 101 or understand it if they have read it. They don't understand/grasp that 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 and straight 40 are all 40 at operating temp. The lower the 1st number, the quicker/easier the oil will flow when it's below operating temp.

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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Great video! I'll definitely give rotella t6 full synthetic a try. I just hope it doesn't create or make my RMS leak worse. Is this t6 available in 10w30? I want to stick to the recommended weight.
the t6 is only 5-40 I believe. it leaked less than the 5-30 conventional oil I used prior. fix the leak(s). I haven't done anything more rewarding to this jeep. that feeling of accomplishment every time I return to my jeep to find clean asphalt/concrete whatever underneath it is priceless. with that being said I noticed my front main (recently replaced) is starting to weep. sob..
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 74
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the t6 is only 5-40 I believe. it leaked less than the 5-30 conventional oil I used prior. fix the leak(s). I haven't done anything more rewarding to this jeep. that feeling of accomplishment every time I return to my jeep to find clean asphalt/concrete whatever underneath it is priceless. with that being said I noticed my front main (recently replaced) is starting to weep. sob..
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
about 25 seconds into the vid is a good demonstration of the first number..
Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic product video - YouTube
Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic product video - YouTube
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Year: 2000
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I understand the importance of the first number. The lower the number 0,5, or 10 the faster it flows with 0 flowing faster. Correct me if I'm wrong, But an increase in flow would mean a decrease in pressure and vice versa right? So a 0w would flow faster to the top but not protect as much because of the decrease in pressure And pressure is created by the Clarences between moving parts???
Last edited by jopez_89; May 17, 2014 at 10:01 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I understand the importance of the first number. The lower the number 0,5, or 10 the faster it flows with 0 flowing faster. Correct me if I'm wrong, But an increase in flow would mean a decrease in pressure and vice versa right? So a 0w would flow faster to the top but not protect as much because of the decrease in pressure And pressure is created by the Clarences between moving parts???
When oil is cold it's ****ing thick. There's no way around that. The difference in viscosity between 40°C and 100°C is normally an order of magnitude. The engines are designed and oil chosen for a certain level of protection at operating temperature. Below operating temperature, the oil is just really ****ing thick. Period.
The first number represents how an oil did on a series of "How impossible is this to pump when it's really freeze your ***** off cold?" tests.
Just buy a 0w30, 5w30, 0w40, or 5w40 and stop worrying about it.



