md1032

so i need to mound some switches in the dash... i would like to see some pics where you put your switches.

thx

warthog

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...6-p1080652.jpg

I tried to post the pic but it didn't work, i have trouble sometimes from work so here is the link

md1032

sweet.

i guess i should have said i have an 89

thx tho

61scout80

.

warthog

Thanks

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

this was what was setup in my old jeep... i still ahve it now... but there are more switches now

if you want i can take a pic tomorrow for you off all my switch placement ..... lots of possible spots

ahenderl

This is what I did. It is called a fitch box in honor of fitchva on the naxja.org forum.

The switches are all mounted in a single box and wired to the relays with a single cat5 cable in a separate box inside the engine compartment.

I wired mine a little different from fitch.

The 1st switch is what I refer to as a "Master". If it is thrown, you can turn on any of the other switches.

The red driving light switch powers my inboard roof lights. They are 110 watt bulbs which are illegal to run on the street in TN, hence the "red light color.

The green driving light powers my outboard roof lights. They are 55 watt bulbs which are legal in TN, but only when high beams are on, hence they are green in color.

It's easier for me to to thing green light ok, red light bad.

ahenderl

I spent some time pondering the wiring and relay configuration to make what I wanted to work.

They are wired so that I can power the roof lights when I have the high beams on or if the "master" lighting bolt switch is on. If I have the roof lights on and the "master" is off, then they will only burn when I have high beams on. That way, if I have them on while on a backroad and I see someone coming the other direction, a simple click to low-beams powers them down along with my headlights....no fumbling around with multiple switches.

Having a "master", however, allows me to power the roof lights when I don't necessarily want to turn my lights to high beam. So far, this has come in handy to aim my lights. I can leave my headlights off and turn inside or outside lights on to dial in my roof lights.

ahenderl

Also, requiring a "master" to be thrown adds an element of safety. If I have a niece, nephew, or drunk buddy riding shotgun and they decide to reach up and hit a switch, nothing will come on without the "master".

The roof lights would come on if I had the high beams on, but I wouldn't have highs on with oncoming traffic, anyway.

The back-ups are wired so that they will only come with the master thrown regardless of high beams or not. So, if my wise ***** buddy decides to throw the back-up switch, it won't come on without first switching on the master. That way, I can't accidentally blind the nice guy behind me.

The last two switches will be for upcoming onboard air and a winch.

J - ust
E - mpty
E - very
P - ocket.

md1032

ahenderl!!! sweet dude... i like that alot. i would love to see more pics and thx for the ideas

wyatts95xj

ahenderl, how much did that set up cost? thats really awesome

ahenderl

Thanks guys. It's a two part deal. I made an overhead switch box to house the switches and a single relay box in the engine compartment to hold all of the relays together.

The relay box is called a fitchbox. The beauty of the whole thing is that it is modular. All of the wires have already been run to the overhead box, so if I add something later, I just have to add the switch and no more pulling my interior apart. The fitchbox has a fuse panel and relays already in place. That way, all I have to do is add the appropriate fuse and run a line to whatever I want powered.

I bought both boxes, fuse panel & relays at Radio Shack. The wire and connectors were picked up at Lowe's. I probably have about $150 in it all together.

If I get a chance this weekend, I can try to do a write-up and draw a wiring diagram. It was a little involved, but not terribly difficult.

Try reading these:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=938344

http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=42

My box is like ftich's, but it attaches a little differently. Mine uses the two screws that held the key remote receiver and a tab that tucks under the headlinner that holds it in place. I'll take some pics, too.

Bought the switches here:

http://www.otrattw.com/products.php?cat=5&pg=2

Troth

Here is my swith box I wired up. I like it in this location because your drunk friends cant play with them when youre driving down the interstate. I fabricated this up out of some extra metal I had. I love the location because its super easy to reach. I use heavy duty switches 10 amp but recently I moved up to 50 amp toggle switches. I like the aviator style flip up switches too

md1032

thanks all

xj4fun

Here's what I did several years ago..