cruiser54

Let's address the no vacuum issue at the rear CCV fitting/hose first.

Follow that line to where it hooks to the intake manifold. Pull it off there and see if there's vacuum at the metal fitting of the manifold.

kurama49

Well, I didnt know that I thought the O-ring is supposed to hold them straight and seal them? and plus I've only been working around vehicles for a year now, so I'm still learning all of this stuff.

cruiser54

It's all good. Besides, you already sprayed around them and found no leaks, right?

Did you put a new or used IAC in?

kurama49

IAC is brand new. I also have to figure out this sudden no spark issue... was working fine[ish] 20 minutes ago, and now I have no spark from the coil. I also cleaned up the wires that go to that little junktion next to the battery since they looked dirty..


And would this wire have to do with anything?... its been just kind of... chillin' since i got the jeep.. whats it for?


And a wire splice I just noticed that comes from the altenator to this grey wire.

cruiser54

Fix that for sure. I hate those connectors on vehicles.

kurama49

Well, i just fixed that wire, But I'm still getting no spark... just took the coil out, cleaned all the conectors and pushed them in a bit like it says to in your renix tips cruiser but still nothing. And this is baffling me because i was using the jeep this morning to go get my coffee and doing a few other run-around things. mind you the random sputter was annoying.. But like i said, its weird that theirs suddenly no spark what-so-ever now.

cruiser54

Unplug and plug back in the CPS connector.

kurama49

Tryed it, got nothing

cruiser54

Have you tested it's output?

kurama49

Sorry for not replying right away, [things got hectic] Well, I got spark back, by replacing the coil and crank position sensor, I deicded to do the cps while i did the coil for peace of mind, since I've been told they're really common to die..
I also cleaned all 6 spark plugs, replaced the positive cable to the starter, replaced the fuel filter, and fixed up some more wiring where i found those silly yellow connectors.

But it still sputters. The idle i can deal with for now, But i just started going back to school to take heavy duty mechanics and i need the sputter fixed since i have to drive 70 miles every day to school and the same ammount back. So, right now the jeep idles at around 1000-1100rpms, which i can put up with for now, its the sputter i need to address right away. A friend told me that the large line that goes into the Evap canister, if bad will cause it to sputter? so I looked at mine and well, its full of cracks, and what not, [didnt notice this before] So i pulled the hose off my part jeep and will be putting it on in class tomorrow.

I also fixed the vacuum line that goes from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold, there was a peice of debris clogged in it.

So these were the plugs when i pulled them out at school:

[theres junk on it cause i dropped it]

And after cleaning and driving 70 miles home



And the new coil and a kind of shot of the new positive cable [which is super beefy]


So quick recap of whats been done since the last post i made:
New coil
New cps
New fuel filter
New positive cable
Spark plugs cleaned
Vacuum block fixed [which when the port is open it idles high, when blocked off the idle goes down, the idle has raised about 100-200rpm since I've un-clogged it]
And I also replaced the MAP with the one from my parts jeep. [which seemed to help with throttle responce a tiny smidge]

So any ideas now?... Fuel pump? bad injector?
when its in netural you can rev it up fine, it doesent sputter at all, but as soon as i start going down the road it will give a little sputter.. then as i drive it... it gets worse.. and worse.. Eispecially on the highway. [which is most of my commute] even my shop teacher is stumped at this.. but then again he's a honda lover and says my jeep is a heep of junk

cruiser54

No cap, rotor and wires?

je4reyk

Can your cat be clogged up ?

cruiser54

Here's how to find out:



CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION
Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.

AZ89MJ

Have you re indexed your distributor? Could be worn out a bit and it is running out of timing adjustment? My 89 had a sputter at low cruising rpm and re indexing it and new cap took care of it.

Have you checked the egr valve for a leak or stuck open?

67 GMC

I don't understand the "as far as I know" statement. Are the cap, rotor, plugs and wires new (you bought them and put them in) or did the previous owner say he changed them. Those plugs in the pic don't look new. Are they Champion Copper plugs or something else? If you've changed the coil to new, I would change all the ignition parts to rule that out. They're cheap.