Stroker motor hard facts
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 889
Likes: 2
From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have two 258ci motors in my barn. One is running and could be re-installed in a vehicle. They other is rough...might run, but somebody took the timing cover off to change out a chain and left it off then laid the motor aside on a dirt floor in a barn. It is going to be my organ donor.
I have a noisey 4.0 HO in my '94. It runs excellent...just makes coffee can full of rocks noise. I am considering a winter re-build and have an excellent machine shop in my town.
I have heard that if I pull the motor and do an ordinary refurbishment rebuild but use the crank and rod set from a 258 that I will have an instant STROKER MOTOR. Kinda like "Instant Breakfast" - that powder you dump in a glass with milk and it's supposed to be the same as food.
My question is: Is this true? Can it be this easy?
I've spent a lot of time searching through the archives and there are a great many threads but I haven't found one that collects the true skinny in one place.
I have a noisey 4.0 HO in my '94. It runs excellent...just makes coffee can full of rocks noise. I am considering a winter re-build and have an excellent machine shop in my town.
I have heard that if I pull the motor and do an ordinary refurbishment rebuild but use the crank and rod set from a 258 that I will have an instant STROKER MOTOR. Kinda like "Instant Breakfast" - that powder you dump in a glass with milk and it's supposed to be the same as food.
My question is: Is this true? Can it be this easy?
I've spent a lot of time searching through the archives and there are a great many threads but I haven't found one that collects the true skinny in one place.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 4
From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Check out jeepstrokers.com and read up. That is the most basic stroker combo but your compression has to be checked and a few other parts added if you want the full potential.
Like a cam to handle the increase volume, ford injectors, adjustable map, intake, header and bored TB. You have the best head for the job and a simple port and polish would help alot.
the list goes on
Like a cam to handle the increase volume, ford injectors, adjustable map, intake, header and bored TB. You have the best head for the job and a simple port and polish would help alot.
the list goes on
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 3
From: Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
258 4.2L engine
3.75 in (95 mm) bore
3.895 in (98.9 mm) stroke
242 4.0L engine
3.895 in (98.9 mm) bore
3.414 in (86.7 mm) stroke
The only thing I would wonder is if you could still use the 4.0 block with that crank... Or would the pistons hit the head
3.75 in (95 mm) bore
3.895 in (98.9 mm) stroke
242 4.0L engine
3.895 in (98.9 mm) bore
3.414 in (86.7 mm) stroke
The only thing I would wonder is if you could still use the 4.0 block with that crank... Or would the pistons hit the head
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 4
From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
You can use off the self pistons with the 4.2 connecting rods (which are shorter than 4.0) but you have to get custom pistons if you want to use the 4.0 rods which = $$$
I've looked at every setup possible. I think the best would be bore .30 over, 4.2 crank and rods, 30 over 4.0 pistons and a comp cam. If the money is there, upgrade the valve train to it doesnt blow up on you.
FYI, LS1 valves will work in our heads and are bigger, they also add a few cc's to the combustion chamber.
I've looked at every setup possible. I think the best would be bore .30 over, 4.2 crank and rods, 30 over 4.0 pistons and a comp cam. If the money is there, upgrade the valve train to it doesnt blow up on you.
FYI, LS1 valves will work in our heads and are bigger, they also add a few cc's to the combustion chamber.
You can use off the self pistons with the 4.2 connecting rods (which are shorter than 4.0) but you have to get custom pistons if you want to use the 4.0 rods which = $$$
I've looked at every setup possible. I think the best would be bore .30 over, 4.2 crank and rods, 30 over 4.0 pistons and a comp cam. If the money is there, upgrade the valve train to it doesnt blow up on you.
FYI, LS1 valves will work in our heads and are bigger, they also add a few cc's to the combustion chamber.
I've looked at every setup possible. I think the best would be bore .30 over, 4.2 crank and rods, 30 over 4.0 pistons and a comp cam. If the money is there, upgrade the valve train to it doesnt blow up on you.
FYI, LS1 valves will work in our heads and are bigger, they also add a few cc's to the combustion chamber.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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From: Grenada, West Indies
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L FI 6cyl [still king of the hill ]
the radiator fan on my 87 wagoneer isn't coming on as it should; any procedures on how to carry out a diagnostic.
Don't forget this one by Golen: I've heard it's one of the best and I'm saving for it.
http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/jeep.html
http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/jeep.html
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 4
From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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