Street Truck questions?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.7L LT1
Hello
New to the forums and have some questions I couldn't find clear answers on the net.
So about 7 years ago (I was 16) I purchased a 1988 Jeep Cammanche 2wd short box with a 1970's 350SBC installed in it, pretty hacked into it from years before. The body was mint but motor ran rough, I drove it for a few months parked it and went onto my other cars.
So after sitting for the past 6 years I drove out to my dad's place and towed it back, motor seized, floors completely gone I started to strip it. Sand blasted and began
I fabricated my entire life a including cross bread engine swaps, widebodys, roll cages, carbon fiber monoques and everything else in between. So I have a good understanding of what custom involves
Now I am probably going to be laughed at for being on a jeep forum building a lowered street truck, but I am doing it to do something different. Ive lifted plenty of trucks so I go both sides of the fence. I already have a big truck.
Got it down to a bar shell, sandblasted and re welded in new floors, shaved engine bay, and picked up my donor car.
96 Fire-bird LT1 with 88,000km
So far I have used the following parts from the fire bird
-5.7L LT1 w/4spd auto
-Firebird Radiator (had to modify the frame rails)
-Thinned out Fire bird harness(entire body+engine)
-Firebird steering column
-Firebird Seats on custom rails
-Firebird center consol
-Fuel Pump assembly
-Shifter assembly
-A/c deleted and smog controls
+
Lowered 3"/20" Sterns
Custom made headers/exhaust
Custom made mounts
Customs made intake
MSC reflashed ECU
Now as im putting the cosmetic stuff stuff back together I want to update the interior/exterior as I have done to the entire drive line. I know the 97+ front end is an easy bolt on job, and at most might need to modify the rear flares to match the pickup box
Now I am using all the Firebird switchs/controls and a cluster from a 95 camaro I rewired since its square like the original jeep one. So I want to use the 97+ dash aswell, mostly just the skin and trim peices.
So questions I have are
Are the 84+ heater boxes close to the 97+? If not how much will I half to modify it to fit to work? Thats the biggest issue I see with dash swaps
Which is the best upgrade for stopping? Originally I was gonna use SW6 brakes but it requires me to do alot of thinking in the front, anything easier?
Also I never got around to trying, but will the front doors off a Cherokee fit the Comanche properly? LOL
Thanks in advance@
New to the forums and have some questions I couldn't find clear answers on the net.
So about 7 years ago (I was 16) I purchased a 1988 Jeep Cammanche 2wd short box with a 1970's 350SBC installed in it, pretty hacked into it from years before. The body was mint but motor ran rough, I drove it for a few months parked it and went onto my other cars.
So after sitting for the past 6 years I drove out to my dad's place and towed it back, motor seized, floors completely gone I started to strip it. Sand blasted and began
I fabricated my entire life a including cross bread engine swaps, widebodys, roll cages, carbon fiber monoques and everything else in between. So I have a good understanding of what custom involves
Now I am probably going to be laughed at for being on a jeep forum building a lowered street truck, but I am doing it to do something different. Ive lifted plenty of trucks so I go both sides of the fence. I already have a big truck.
Got it down to a bar shell, sandblasted and re welded in new floors, shaved engine bay, and picked up my donor car.
96 Fire-bird LT1 with 88,000km
So far I have used the following parts from the fire bird
-5.7L LT1 w/4spd auto
-Firebird Radiator (had to modify the frame rails)
-Thinned out Fire bird harness(entire body+engine)
-Firebird steering column
-Firebird Seats on custom rails
-Firebird center consol
-Fuel Pump assembly
-Shifter assembly
-A/c deleted and smog controls
+
Lowered 3"/20" Sterns
Custom made headers/exhaust
Custom made mounts
Customs made intake
MSC reflashed ECU
Now as im putting the cosmetic stuff stuff back together I want to update the interior/exterior as I have done to the entire drive line. I know the 97+ front end is an easy bolt on job, and at most might need to modify the rear flares to match the pickup box
Now I am using all the Firebird switchs/controls and a cluster from a 95 camaro I rewired since its square like the original jeep one. So I want to use the 97+ dash aswell, mostly just the skin and trim peices.
So questions I have are
Are the 84+ heater boxes close to the 97+? If not how much will I half to modify it to fit to work? Thats the biggest issue I see with dash swaps
Which is the best upgrade for stopping? Originally I was gonna use SW6 brakes but it requires me to do alot of thinking in the front, anything easier?
Also I never got around to trying, but will the front doors off a Cherokee fit the Comanche properly? LOL
Thanks in advance@
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Locust Grove, VA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 HO
In regards to the doors, it depends on the years. Some of the doors between them will match, others will not. You will just have to test and see.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 3
From: Northern Illinois
Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is no "testing" doors....
84-96 Cherokee 4 door front doors fit Comanches...
Post up on Comanche Club. there are a few 2wd lowered street truck owners on there. There is one guy who tubbed out a Comanche and made a frame dragger.
84-96 Cherokee 4 door front doors fit Comanches...
Post up on Comanche Club. there are a few 2wd lowered street truck owners on there. There is one guy who tubbed out a Comanche and made a frame dragger.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.7L LT1
Hey Guys
Thanks for the help! I do plan to make it very unique as all my vehicles are. Blacked out low and mean! The trick with this truck is its a budget build. Originally I was planning on swapping in a 2JZ but I don't have the time/budget for this truck to do it right now. Our 1JZ powered E36 BMW has taken enough of my time.
So things like BBK for this are kinda outta the question unless its for a steal.
I want to retain the 5x114.3 bolt pattern since I can swap wheels between my Evo, MR2, and Supra. Now I have the LSD Firebird rear assembly I want to shorten convert to a 5x114.3 and use. That leaves the fronts. The SW6 fronts are kinda hard to adapt since it uses the spindals to hold the brake pads on. So my next thought is to use a GTR skyline front brakes since they are on a independent assembly. I have a set I am going to half to test and see.
I am gonna pick up a 98 Cherokee sport next week for a donor truck for the finishing bits and I have another Comanche for the little bits.
I will post pics up in the next day or so. Trying to find my camera cable lol.
Ive taken pictures of most of the build to this point. Thanks for the support and look forward to learning more from you guys!
Thanks for the help! I do plan to make it very unique as all my vehicles are. Blacked out low and mean! The trick with this truck is its a budget build. Originally I was planning on swapping in a 2JZ but I don't have the time/budget for this truck to do it right now. Our 1JZ powered E36 BMW has taken enough of my time.
So things like BBK for this are kinda outta the question unless its for a steal.
I want to retain the 5x114.3 bolt pattern since I can swap wheels between my Evo, MR2, and Supra. Now I have the LSD Firebird rear assembly I want to shorten convert to a 5x114.3 and use. That leaves the fronts. The SW6 fronts are kinda hard to adapt since it uses the spindals to hold the brake pads on. So my next thought is to use a GTR skyline front brakes since they are on a independent assembly. I have a set I am going to half to test and see.
I am gonna pick up a 98 Cherokee sport next week for a donor truck for the finishing bits and I have another Comanche for the little bits.
I will post pics up in the next day or so. Trying to find my camera cable lol.
Ive taken pictures of most of the build to this point. Thanks for the support and look forward to learning more from you guys!
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: beaufort sc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm kinda new to this forum and someone said above me he is putting it on his watch list... is there a real list you can put it on or do you just gotta keep finding it? I'm also interested in htis build
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.7L LT1
Hey guys pics tomorrow, forgot my camera cable at the shop! I have a ton of pics! Does this site host them by chance?
I went and looked at some different Cherokee's today and have decided
I want to also use the 97+ doors. Since the door skins are more modern to match the dash and the windows are 1 peice. Im going with Black leather seats/black Army Cammo/Carbon is the theme for the inside.
Will be painting it jet black with Carbon hood/Tail gate w/ Matt Black 20's
I want the modern look since power train wise it is updated
From what Ive heard and what i've found so far is that the striker mount on the B pillar will need to be moved/welded. Other than that its straight forward. Any input?
I also noticed the booster and master looked much bigger, am going to switch that out as well, once I figure out front brakes ill half to test the braking and possibly add a portioning valve.
In the process of finding rust free parts. Canada LOL
I finished the headers today, had a hell of a time fitting them to come in and out easy with keeping it serviceable since my spark plugs are near impossible to get at on the passenger side, once installed
drive shaft will be done by the end of the week. Then I can make the Y pipe. Exhaust is 2.5" duals into single 4" cat and borla muffler dumped in font of the axle. Doing this for future plans.
Later down the road once I have it running and driving 100% reliable I want to add a tail pipe turbo system to it. 5-6psi max. Stock internals, just fuel/proper tuning. One advantage of the LT1 is that its very inexpensive to tune which is a bonus. Once I see 400whp I will stop lol. I could only hope its easy enough since many 4 cylinders make that on stock internals, and even a couple on stock turbochargers
For now I want to see it run flawless for 5000km then I will see where I am financially to play with it more. I would love to do a completely new suspension system, but that kind of time I don't have for this truck right now.
I went and looked at some different Cherokee's today and have decided
I want to also use the 97+ doors. Since the door skins are more modern to match the dash and the windows are 1 peice. Im going with Black leather seats/black Army Cammo/Carbon is the theme for the inside.
Will be painting it jet black with Carbon hood/Tail gate w/ Matt Black 20's
I want the modern look since power train wise it is updated
From what Ive heard and what i've found so far is that the striker mount on the B pillar will need to be moved/welded. Other than that its straight forward. Any input?
I also noticed the booster and master looked much bigger, am going to switch that out as well, once I figure out front brakes ill half to test the braking and possibly add a portioning valve.
In the process of finding rust free parts. Canada LOL
I finished the headers today, had a hell of a time fitting them to come in and out easy with keeping it serviceable since my spark plugs are near impossible to get at on the passenger side, once installed
drive shaft will be done by the end of the week. Then I can make the Y pipe. Exhaust is 2.5" duals into single 4" cat and borla muffler dumped in font of the axle. Doing this for future plans.
Later down the road once I have it running and driving 100% reliable I want to add a tail pipe turbo system to it. 5-6psi max. Stock internals, just fuel/proper tuning. One advantage of the LT1 is that its very inexpensive to tune which is a bonus. Once I see 400whp I will stop lol. I could only hope its easy enough since many 4 cylinders make that on stock internals, and even a couple on stock turbochargers
For now I want to see it run flawless for 5000km then I will see where I am financially to play with it more. I would love to do a completely new suspension system, but that kind of time I don't have for this truck right now.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.7L LT1
oh and just crazy talk now but I do love my 4wd cars, and in theory some stock jeep transfer cases bolt directly to my trans. 700R.
Now lets just say I swapped that in there, along with the front axle
How/what normally fails in the transfer case at high speeds, 80km/h+?
How could this be modified to overcome this, as I would only want 4H?
Just out of curiosity?
Now lets just say I swapped that in there, along with the front axle
How/what normally fails in the transfer case at high speeds, 80km/h+?
How could this be modified to overcome this, as I would only want 4H?
Just out of curiosity?
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
master cylinder from 95+ XJs is dual diaphram = good upgrade for sure.
weak point in the transfer case would be the chain - you can find wider chains for them though - search around. The np242 transfer case, or the newer version (i forget what the # is nv____) is probably your best option. It has full-time 4wd capabilities so you can run it in 4x4 regardless of road conditions (the np231 is part-time 4x4 and can only be used in slippery/loose soil conditions).
Oh an the front axle is another weak point. You'll likely want to upgrade the shafts to a chromoly shafts and stronger ujoints (760x) at a minimum.
weak point in the transfer case would be the chain - you can find wider chains for them though - search around. The np242 transfer case, or the newer version (i forget what the # is nv____) is probably your best option. It has full-time 4wd capabilities so you can run it in 4x4 regardless of road conditions (the np231 is part-time 4x4 and can only be used in slippery/loose soil conditions).
Oh an the front axle is another weak point. You'll likely want to upgrade the shafts to a chromoly shafts and stronger ujoints (760x) at a minimum.
Last edited by dukie564; Nov 17, 2010 at 07:43 AM.




