Thanks Cruiser. Let me know. Tomorrow im planning to get everything done and crossing my fingers i can fix this without spending money.

 

6mm by 1.0 by 15mm long

 

Spend some time looking at the e-fan. If, as you mentioned, it got close to overheating, but the fan did not kick on, that something's not right I don't recall at what temperature...maybe like 220 or so...the e-fan should be running. Don't Neglect overheating issues!

 

218*

 

In the little testing I did with a propane torch, it seemed worthless. Straight propane might work, but a torch provides a "carbourated" mix. The engine will see that as regular fuel/air mix, more or less. I have not tested plain water!


Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep. ALSO, there is a large line coming off the intake, rear of the TB that goes back to the firewall, across, then forward down to the vacuum ball behind your right front bumper. You can pinch that off or unplug it and cap the nipple to test if you have a leak there. The line to the break Booster can also leak vacuum.

 

Ok cruiser. Coil was removed and alot dirtier than i thought. Heres some pics because you know i love pics!

These are the 2 pins you were talking about? Sanded them and the connector in the center. Is something supposed to be connected to that center connector? There wasnt when i unplugged it. Here they are sanded off. I should put dialectric grease on these and the little metal clips they slide into? These were green with corrosion.

 

Oh also. I want to disconnect the egr valve because the symptoms of an egr valve failing are identical to what is happening right now. I understand you remove a hose from the valve and cap it off but which hose? Theres one going each way. And should this close the valve permanently or could it be stuck open badly enough that capping the vaccum line wont do anything?

 

Alright so i pit it back in after greasing everything up and did a few laps around my apartment complex since it was only stalling at low speeds when i let off the gas. Didnt stall once. The idle sounded great! for a few seconds when i first started up. But it is still surging pretty hardcore. It goes up higher which may be the normal range for it but then it dips down real low to the point where the whole engine starts shaking then it goes back to the normal mid range level. I will drive it some more and see how we are looking and go from there.

 

Ooh. Progress!!

Disconnect and plug both hoses from the eGR for testing purposes and see what happens.

 

For testing purposes i plan to use those twist on wire terminators. The colored caps you use in house wiring. And then ill put electrical tape around them to seal them up. If it works ill go out and buy real caps.


I saw the pintle from the top of the jeep but i wasnt able to move it at all by hand. How can i ensure that it is closed after i remove the vaccum lines?

 

Oh and would i want to plug the nipples on the egr itself as well?

 

Don't worry about your nipples.

It's the pintle moving back towards you that allows exhaust gasses into the intake.

 

Lol, im very concerned about my nipples Cruiser.

Ok but seriously. So i should be able to move it with pliers then and push the pintle inwards to make sure its closed?

 

Yes. But don't do that just yet. Just disconnect and plug the HOSES with screws or something.

 

Allright. I will post back again later after doing that. I also havent gotten to the ground refreshing. For the longest time now i had no idea where the dipstick tube stud was but i found an older post. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-...rs-renix-tips/ that had pictures! Wth cruiser?! Showin the commanche some picture love but not us xj guys? =P Literally you are on every forum ive seen though and im super glad to have found those pictures. You ought to save those pictures and add them to your renix tips for this site. For someone like me it can be very helpful. Yeah dipstick tube stud would sound real simple but ive been in that area several times and the area is so caked with oil and crud ive never noticed a stud. Should be able to find it easily now! Gonna have to mix up some degreaser and see if i can dig it out. Lol. Anywho be back later after a nap!