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Sticky valve

Old Sep 21, 2011 | 07:03 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Varnish & Gunk. Wonder if it's had high detergent oil like we have. (helps prevent that)....I heard once "HD" stands for high detergent, not heavy duty.
Also herd putting high detergent in an engine run on older oil can cause problems freeing up gunk that clogs things like lifters.

Any chemists out there? Isn't toluene, used in painting, the same as in Kem-tool?
I wouldn't doubt Chem-Tool is a simple chemical with a fancy label. Many products are.

As far as adding high detergent oil causing problems, I'm not so sure it's a problem. I've done it many times with no issue. I'd rather change to HD oil and do a few oil changes in succession than shock the engine with SeaFoam or something like that.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 08:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I wouldn't doubt Chem-Tool is a simple chemical with a fancy label. Many products are.

As far as adding high detergent oil causing problems, I'm not so sure it's a problem. I've done it many times with no issue. I'd rather change to HD oil and do a few oil changes in succession than shock the engine with SeaFoam or something like that.
Really? I've never heard anything negative about sea foam. Why would it be such a shock?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 09:42 AM
  #18  
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I'd never heard of Seafoam until this site. I gather it is a solvent that might dissolve deposits "less than gently" ???...might be good for a flat lifter?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 05:02 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I'd never heard of Seafoam until this site. I gather it is a solvent that might dissolve deposits "less than gently" ???...might be good for a flat lifter?
Ding-ding. You got the answer.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 02:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ArmyGraham
I have a valve that sticking when I first start up, it gets worse with cold weather. Is there anyway I can clean it with the head still on the Jeep? Before you say sea foam, I need you to realize I'm in south Korea and they have no such thing here. I tried ordering some but they can't ship it too me because of customs or something. I need this fixed bad because I'm not running a muffler ATM (long story) and I think it's an exhaust valve. So when I start up it sounds ridiculous, plus I'm sure it's killing my plug and just caking more grim into my cylinder. Any suggestions? I'min the army so I can still get some American stuff on post. I tried the slick 50 engine cleaner, but it was an oil additive and didn't help.
Did you ever resolve your issue? I have been having a lifter stick, and have been researching, and was wondering what you tried? And what my have fixed yours?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BigzXJ
Did you ever resolve your issue? I have been having a lifter stick, and have been researching, and was wondering what you tried? And what my have fixed yours?
Have you ever substituted one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for a quart of engine oil? I'm having good success with that. Run the combo for 1,000 to 1,500 miles. Drain and repeat.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Have you ever substituted one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for a quart of engine oil? I'm having good success with that. Run the combo for 1,000 to 1,500 miles. Drain and repeat.

Hey cruiser. I haven't used any thing yet. My 90 is about to wear me out. After my ground refresh, I have this issue. Just my luck. Anyways, been looking on different ideas to try. Would like to just replace them, and replace some other things while Im at it. Like my exhaust manifold, but money and time is a little tight.

I may try the marvel, read a few success story with it. I have also read about transmisson fluid working great too. So I'm at a toss up on which one to use.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:33 PM
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MMO is working on both of my Jeeps. I didn't even change the oil on either one initially as it wasn't that old. I just drained out a quart of oil and added a quart of MMO. Wife's Jeep after 1,500 miles no more tick. My Jeep after 1,000 miles tick almost gone.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
MMO is working on both of my Jeeps. I didn't even change the oil on either one initially as it wasn't that old. I just drained out a quart of oil and added a quart of MMO. Wife's Jeep after 1,500 miles no more tick. My Jeep after 1,000 miles tick almost gone.
I will give that a try. My lifter does stick. Mostly when the engine is cold, but a few minutes is stops. Sounds like a diesel when it does it. First time it did it I thought I broke a rod. Left it at work then the next morning, it acted like nothing happened.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 05:23 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BigzXJ
I will give that a try. My lifter does stick. Mostly when the engine is cold, but a few minutes is stops. Sounds like a diesel when it does it. First time it did it I thought I broke a rod. Left it at work then the next morning, it acted like nothing happened.
When it ticks on start-up, turn it right off. Wait a few seconds and re-start it. The tick will probably be gone as the lifter pumped up. That way you don't keep driving it with the slack in the valvetrain beating away for all that time.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:34 AM
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As a last resort, couldn't a guy pull the valve cover and dribble a little solvent right down the push-rod? Maybe Friday night, hit it a couple times over the weekend and give her a go Monday? I would think it would seep in and around the lifter, at least some. Guess it could get a little interesting if that vapor ignited in the crankcase though!

Last edited by DFlintstone; Feb 1, 2012 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Spelling, though
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 02:42 AM
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If you can get sea foam, it's seems to do the best. There is a way you do it through your vacume line that seems to do the best, but it's going to smoke like crazy so do it at night. If I had that available or mmo I'd use sea foam.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 03:54 AM
  #28  
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If decide to do seafoam just run it through the brake booster really slow. Then put some in the gas tank to cover the most part of the intake process.

As for the last post, if you can't find seafoam there are a few alternatives, seafoam just happens to be one of the more popular ones. There is a 2 part system you can get from gumout that does the same thing. Comes with a bottle you run through vacuum and a bottle to put in gas.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 04:23 AM
  #29  
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Start by changing the oil filter!
If the anti-drainback valve in it isn't closing it will always be a dry start - noisy.

15 seconds is not long enough for a valve to unstick - it's a dry lifter.

if the filer is a Fram it's very likely. Use a quality filter.
.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 05:27 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ArmyGraham
If you can get sea foam, it's seems to do the best. There is a way you do it through your vacume line that seems to do the best, but it's going to smoke like crazy so do it at night. If I had that available or mmo I'd use sea foam.
Running anything through the intake is not gonna affect a lifter. A lifter will be affected by crankcase oil.

While seafoaming an intake as you suggest or using BG44K is a good idea periodically, it's not what is needed for the OP's problem.
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