steering stabilizer/damper replacement
#16
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
just hook the steering stabilizer back up and drive to the store, just keep it under 50. i drove without one on for a while and i had no problem.
#17
EMAXX620, and Dillon470
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
EMAXX620, and Dillon470
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
#19
#20
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 3,683
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You also were directly acknowledging members that have been gone 6 years. And this thread was about a steering stabilizer. Nothing to do with the motor so I don't know where that came from hah
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