Just received New Alternator.
Test certificate states 13.2 volts output.

Is this too low ? Should I send it back ?

It has high ratings, despite being Chinese. Brand "TYC"

This is a 90amp replacement for my original Denso on '95 4.0


Took me 7+ hrs. to remove! - likely will be same to put back in.
Hate to waste that time for something that's going to fail right off the bat.

 

Does the certificate specify what RPM it produces that voltage?

I'm curious what difficulties you ran into that took so long for the removal of the alternator. It shouldn't take long at all if you pull out the battery tray.

 

No, it does Not specify RPM of that 13.2 Voltage

Here's the AMP RPM's though :
42 @ 1,600
63 @ 2,000
76 @ 2,400
98 @ 3,500
111 @ 5,000
117 @ 6,000

It states "Pulley Ratio 2.23" - so I guess chop off 55% of above RPM's to get engine RPM's.

But it's a mystery what "Output current tested at 13.2 Volts" actually means, or what RPM was used.
(presumably, it was an optimal RPM)

 

Difficulties removing alternator :
AFTER 1st removing battery tray + entire airbox system (to access under PS pump for belt-loosening bolt.

1. removing thick rubber mat bolted (yes bolted) underneath in dozen places, with nearly impossible setup for 1 person, requiring creating jig to hold fastener top side of bolts, while underneath loosening nuts.

2. removing entire "L" front bracket & it's 4 bolts in zero space. (no guide tells you to take this out - but alternator isn't going anywhere without this bracket out).

3. partly removing steel engine fan (not clutch), to allow Alternator to "walk/tilt" forward.

4. Trying to lower alternator from bottom like most people say. This is utterly impossible. Perhaps other years allow that, but was never going to happen, and I'm pretty creative.
Also meant that taking out bolted rubber mat (#1) was waste of time.
(and this is 2WD, so no transfer case in front to interfere, nor suspension interfered - it's a matter of physics: space between block & frame just isn't there, period)

5. Trying to raise alternator up.
Considered taking out AC, then Alt. casting supports, even removing AC pressure hoses.
Thankfully did none of those.
Finally, on 100th try, used sheer force to pry it past block/cast-arms on 1 side, and wheelbody/frame on other side.


Lots of time 2nd-guessing the last 2 items, and which would cause the most damage.
Also, since some might wonder: it's never been in an accident, nor modified - everything's original & clean.

 

Difficulties removing alternator :
AFTER 1st removing battery tray + entire airbox system (to access under PS pump for belt-loosening bolt.

1. removing thick rubber mat bolted (yes bolted) underneath in dozen places, with nearly impossible setup for 1 person, requiring creating jig to hold fastener top side of bolts, while underneath loosening nuts.

2. removing entire "L" front bracket & it's 4 bolts in zero space. (no guide tells you to take this out - but alternator isn't going anywhere without this bracket out).

3. partly removing steel engine fan (not clutch), to allow Alternator to "walk/tilt" forward.

4. Trying to lower alternator from bottom like most people say. This is utterly impossible. Perhaps other years allow that, but was never going to happen, and I'm pretty creative.
Also meant that taking out bolted rubber mat (#1) was waste of time.
(and this is 2WD, so no transfer case in front to interfere, nor suspension interfered - it's a matter of physics: space between block & frame just isn't there, period)

5. Trying to raise alternator up.
Considered taking out AC, then Alt. casting supports, even removing AC pressure hoses.
Thankfully did none of those.
Finally, on 100th try, used sheer force to pry it UP, past block/cast-arms on 1 side & wheelbody/frame on opposite side.


Lots of time 2nd-guessing the last 2 items, and which would cause the most damage.
Also, since some might wonder: it's never been in an accident, nor modified - everything's original & clean.

 

Yes, it's not very specific at all. Not only what RPM at which it was tested, but under what load (current) it was tested. If it provides 13.2 volts under full load (as if all accessories were running), at idle RPM, I would be perfectly happy with the performance.