steering stabilizer/damper replacement
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
just hook the steering stabilizer back up and drive to the store, just keep it under 50. i drove without one on for a while and i had no problem.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
EMAXX620, and Dillon470
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
EMAXX620, and Dillon470
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
Local parts store did not have a sturdy enough C-clamp, or pickel fork in the right size. Whacking (using 8 # sledge, short handle) on the drag link, around where the taper bolt goes in, got nowhere.
Given that a castle nut is included with the replacement, turned that nut around so the sturdiest part is facing out; screwed it back on, so it was about even with the bolt end. Put something heavy between the drag link and small gap -- about where EMAXX620 shows what could be a chisel -- in this case a wood-splitting wedge. Whacked the castle nut / taper-bolt end, and it popped out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You also were directly acknowledging members that have been gone 6 years. And this thread was about a steering stabilizer. Nothing to do with the motor so I don't know where that came from hah
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