Steering problems
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: California
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
Hey everybody. So I’m having issues with my steering currently. Lots of wandering and I bump steer like crazy. Last month I did the zj steering upgrade and threw on the tie rod and drag kinks that u got off rock auto. Seemed to help a little bit but I noticed my steering box had some lateral play in it. Not too experienced on this aspect and haven’t found much online to help me out here. I’m thinking about replacing the steering box but I’ve heard bad things about pretty much everyone other than stock boxes and psc. Not looking to break the bank on this right now. Just need some advice on where to look. It’s got a 3.5 lift from Rusty’s and 32in tires.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: California
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
Also forgot to mention. Whenever I brake no matter how hard it pulls left or right super hard. Recently replaced my pads and rotors with power stop so I doubt that’s an issue.
Something is ****ed up there bro, and you need to find out what, before you crash !
1) with engine off, and wheels on ground, move steering wheel. There should be less than 1/2" "freeplay"
2) lift front, turn on engine, window down, bonnet up. Observe steering input shaft and Pitman arm
Standing outside vehicle, engine on, move steering wheel. There should be very little freeplay between steering wheel, input shaft, and Pitman arm movement (1/2" to 1" max)
If it passes these tests, your steering box backward is probably ok
3) get under vehicle, have someone rotate steering wheel, engine on, wheels on ground. Watch every part in the process for unacceptable movement
Your steering box should NOT have "lateral movement"..check the bolt tightness, integrity of any spacer, and whether the unirail is cracked, or in fact flexing..if so, check archives for solutions, common problem
If you have a 3,5" lift, do you have adjustable trackbar and control arms, and if so, are they correctly adjusted?
4) Measure height of truck at front in various locations. It should be the same for each side
5) Put a jack or heavy prybar under each front suspension joint and see if it has unacceptable movement
6) Examine maintenance records and physical parts of your braking system, as pulling to one side is most often associated with one brake caliper/drum NOT working
Do you know the age/state of your brake hoses, pads, shoes, calipers etc ?
Have you examined and attempted to adjust rear drums (they can do funny things)
1) with engine off, and wheels on ground, move steering wheel. There should be less than 1/2" "freeplay"
2) lift front, turn on engine, window down, bonnet up. Observe steering input shaft and Pitman arm
Standing outside vehicle, engine on, move steering wheel. There should be very little freeplay between steering wheel, input shaft, and Pitman arm movement (1/2" to 1" max)
If it passes these tests, your steering box backward is probably ok
3) get under vehicle, have someone rotate steering wheel, engine on, wheels on ground. Watch every part in the process for unacceptable movement
Your steering box should NOT have "lateral movement"..check the bolt tightness, integrity of any spacer, and whether the unirail is cracked, or in fact flexing..if so, check archives for solutions, common problem
If you have a 3,5" lift, do you have adjustable trackbar and control arms, and if so, are they correctly adjusted?
4) Measure height of truck at front in various locations. It should be the same for each side
5) Put a jack or heavy prybar under each front suspension joint and see if it has unacceptable movement
6) Examine maintenance records and physical parts of your braking system, as pulling to one side is most often associated with one brake caliper/drum NOT working
Do you know the age/state of your brake hoses, pads, shoes, calipers etc ?
Have you examined and attempted to adjust rear drums (they can do funny things)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: California
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
Something is ****ed up there bro, and you need to find out what, before you crash !
1) with engine off, and wheels on ground, move steering wheel. There should be less than 1/2" "freeplay"
2) lift front, turn on engine, window down, bonnet up. Observe steering input shaft and Pitman arm
Standing outside vehicle, engine on, move steering wheel. There should be very little freeplay between steering wheel, input shaft, and Pitman arm movement (1/2" to 1" max)
If it passes these tests, your steering box backward is probably ok
3) get under vehicle, have someone rotate steering wheel, engine on, wheels on ground. Watch every part in the process for unacceptable movement
Your steering box should NOT have "lateral movement"..check the bolt tightness, integrity of any spacer, and whether the unirail is cracked, or in fact flexing..if so, check archives for solutions, common problem
If you have a 3,5" lift, do you have adjustable trackbar and control arms, and if so, are they correctly adjusted?
4) Measure height of truck at front in various locations. It should be the same for each side
5) Put a jack or heavy prybar under each front suspension joint and see if it has unacceptable movement
6) Examine maintenance records and physical parts of your braking system, as pulling to one side is most often associated with one brake caliper/drum NOT working
Do you know the age/state of your brake hoses, pads, shoes, calipers etc ?
Have you examined and attempted to adjust rear drums (they can do funny things)
1) with engine off, and wheels on ground, move steering wheel. There should be less than 1/2" "freeplay"
2) lift front, turn on engine, window down, bonnet up. Observe steering input shaft and Pitman arm
Standing outside vehicle, engine on, move steering wheel. There should be very little freeplay between steering wheel, input shaft, and Pitman arm movement (1/2" to 1" max)
If it passes these tests, your steering box backward is probably ok
3) get under vehicle, have someone rotate steering wheel, engine on, wheels on ground. Watch every part in the process for unacceptable movement
Your steering box should NOT have "lateral movement"..check the bolt tightness, integrity of any spacer, and whether the unirail is cracked, or in fact flexing..if so, check archives for solutions, common problem
If you have a 3,5" lift, do you have adjustable trackbar and control arms, and if so, are they correctly adjusted?
4) Measure height of truck at front in various locations. It should be the same for each side
5) Put a jack or heavy prybar under each front suspension joint and see if it has unacceptable movement
6) Examine maintenance records and physical parts of your braking system, as pulling to one side is most often associated with one brake caliper/drum NOT working
Do you know the age/state of your brake hoses, pads, shoes, calipers etc ?
Have you examined and attempted to adjust rear drums (they can do funny things)
1. has definitely more that that of free movement in the wheel and I can hear something making a clunking kinda noise.
2. Haven’t done yet
3. The box seems to be solid but the shaft connected to the pitman arm is moving towards the way I turn
the rest I’ll get done later. I know my shocks are on their way out soon cause every bump and dip in the road makes the whole thing bounce around
If you move the steering wheel, the Pitman arm will move the opposite direction (I think, not under my truck now lol)
The draglink should move in the same direction as the Pitman arm, a tie rod allows flexibilty, but sometimes can become way loose after a short period of break in and must be re-tighted and split pin re-inserted
This older style of steering setup is way more rugged than IRS/rack & pinion setups, but still has to be set up and maintained correctly
I suspect you are going to find there is more than one fault at play for you now, so it will be best to get it sorted
Its taken me a while to get mine to steer as well as it does now. with a ~3" lift.
I still have a few things to do, such as overcoming a slight wallowing of the trackbar mount holes, but I have complete confidence, it does not vibrate, bump steer, I tightened the adjuster on top of box and it has 1/2" freeplay at steering wheel (too tight the box wont even turn)
I have altered my LCA to correct caster/pinion angle, and will further adjust my trackbar, so that tracking and wheel alignment is perfect (just added ~1" extra lift)
An lifted XJ will never be a great steering vehicle, but it should NOT be dangerous to drive
The draglink should move in the same direction as the Pitman arm, a tie rod allows flexibilty, but sometimes can become way loose after a short period of break in and must be re-tighted and split pin re-inserted
This older style of steering setup is way more rugged than IRS/rack & pinion setups, but still has to be set up and maintained correctly
I suspect you are going to find there is more than one fault at play for you now, so it will be best to get it sorted
Its taken me a while to get mine to steer as well as it does now. with a ~3" lift.
I still have a few things to do, such as overcoming a slight wallowing of the trackbar mount holes, but I have complete confidence, it does not vibrate, bump steer, I tightened the adjuster on top of box and it has 1/2" freeplay at steering wheel (too tight the box wont even turn)
I have altered my LCA to correct caster/pinion angle, and will further adjust my trackbar, so that tracking and wheel alignment is perfect (just added ~1" extra lift)
An lifted XJ will never be a great steering vehicle, but it should NOT be dangerous to drive
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: California
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
If you move the steering wheel, the Pitman arm will move the opposite direction (I think, not under my truck now lol)
The draglink should move in the same direction as the Pitman arm, a tie rod allows flexibilty, but sometimes can become way loose after a short period of break in and must be re-tighted and split pin re-inserted
This older style of steering setup is way more rugged than IRS/rack & pinion setups, but still has to be set up and maintained correctly
I suspect you are going to find there is more than one fault at play for you now, so it will be best to get it sorted
Its taken me a while to get mine to steer as well as it does now. with a ~3" lift.
I still have a few things to do, such as overcoming a slight wallowing of the trackbar mount holes, but I have complete confidence, it does not vibrate, bump steer, I tightened the adjuster on top of box and it has 1/2" freeplay at steering wheel (too tight the box wont even turn)
I have altered my LCA to correct caster/pinion angle, and will further adjust my trackbar, so that tracking and wheel alignment is perfect (just added ~1" extra lift)
An lifted XJ will never be a great steering vehicle, but it should NOT be dangerous to drive
The draglink should move in the same direction as the Pitman arm, a tie rod allows flexibilty, but sometimes can become way loose after a short period of break in and must be re-tighted and split pin re-inserted
This older style of steering setup is way more rugged than IRS/rack & pinion setups, but still has to be set up and maintained correctly
I suspect you are going to find there is more than one fault at play for you now, so it will be best to get it sorted
Its taken me a while to get mine to steer as well as it does now. with a ~3" lift.
I still have a few things to do, such as overcoming a slight wallowing of the trackbar mount holes, but I have complete confidence, it does not vibrate, bump steer, I tightened the adjuster on top of box and it has 1/2" freeplay at steering wheel (too tight the box wont even turn)
I have altered my LCA to correct caster/pinion angle, and will further adjust my trackbar, so that tracking and wheel alignment is perfect (just added ~1" extra lift)
An lifted XJ will never be a great steering vehicle, but it should NOT be dangerous to drive
I do not know what alterations have been made from factory, who made them, or why, but I can tell for sure an overall review of what has been done needs to take place, any faults identified & rectified
You will need to put up a clear detailed post, and include pictures, and forum members can then give you sensible advice
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