1. Get one of these: S.U.R. 5/16" check valve part number SRRCKV5
2. Depressurize fuel lines by pressing on the Schrader valve located on the fuel rail (cover it with a rag or you may get fuel on the face)
3. Look underneath the vehicle from the rear end in front of the gas tank there is a hard plastic fuel line against the undercarriage. That is the line that feeds fuel into the engine (it has a quick disconnect that mates into a metal fuel line). Note: Do not mistake the hard plastic line with the rubber return line.
4. Disconnect the line’s quick disconnect by pressing the two tabs simultaneously and pulling away from the metal fuel line.
5. Cut the hard plastic fuel line about an inch from the front of the fuel tank.
6. Grab the front fuel line that you just cut.
7. Measure the distance on the Check Valve from end to end.
8. Subtract ¼” from that measurement and cut that much off the front line you cut (this will allow for a flush fit)
9. There are two hollow nuts and two white plastic seals with the Check Valve Kit.
10. Install one hollow nut through the line coming out of the tank, and the other hollow nut through the other end (make sure the threaded part faces where the check valve will be installed)
11. Install the white plastic seals on both ends of the fuel lines (make sure the sharp edges of the seals face toward the check valve)
12. The check valve has to be installed with the arrow pointing toward the front of the vehicle, that’s the fuel flow to the engine
13. Install the fuel line, with the quick disconnect, onto the check valve and tighten hollow nut (press fuel line all the way into the valve).
14. Install the other side of the check valve onto the fuel line coming out of the tank.
15. You could also install the holding clamp that came with the kit.
16. Turn the key to ignition on and off a couple of times to allow fuel to reach the fuel rail.
17. Start the engine and look for any leaks.

Having to turn the key on and off a couple of times to start your car – A pain in the ****
Having to drop the tank to replace an expensive fuel pump that pumps just fine but leaks back into tank – A pain in the ****
Fixing the problem in 30 minutes and 40 bucks - Priceless

 

where do you get the part from? My 98XJ is starting to start hard also.

 

Many places on the net. Do a search for "S.U.R. Check Valve 5/16", there are also available through eBay. Here is one link:
http://www.brandsplace.com/0384-srrckv5.html

 

Here is the place I got it from...it was the cheapest I found on the net:

http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1163391.html

 

I need to do this to my 2000 GC 4.7V8. When I look under the car I see three lines from the tank, two go to what seems to be a fuel filter (my manual tells me this is part of the fuel pressure regulator) and one is the rubber return line. Should I put the valve after the filter or in one of the lines to the filer?
Thanks.

 

This fuel check valve is not designed to work on returnless fuel systems. You WILL blow apart lines and injectors once up to operating temperature and you shut the engine off. Please research this before you go sticking a check valve in your single line fuel system.

 

Thanks for the warning. i will look at theis in more depth. When I had a look under the car it looked like I had a return line and two feeds (to the filter) maybe this is not the case. Would this mean I need a new fuel pump instead of a quick fix with a non return valve?

 

so this is something that will not fix the orignal problem? more so mak a much bigger issue is what your sayin>?

 

As I understand it, the filer/regulator under the car has a supply from the tank, a return to the tank and a pressurised feed to the engine. As long as the non return valve goes between the pump and the filter/regulator then it should be OK (I think) However, the jeep TSB that setails the problem says a new O ring in the fuel pump should fix the problem. I think this is the best way to go. Might take a little longer but at least it will be done right.

 

What is the TSB number that describes replacing the o-ring in the gas tank? Better yet, does anyone have a copy they can share? Even though you have to go through the trouble of dropping the tank, replacing an o-ring is a much cheaper solution that an entire fuel pump.

 

I just installed the S.U.R. check valve in my '90 Cherokee 4.0. VIOLA!! She starts right up every time now. Thanks for the great tip AND the detailed instructions. The job was quick and easy. The only difference I had was that the fuel line was 1/4" ID rubber rather than nylon. I had to run up to the store for a couple of small hose clamps. Everything else was in the package.
Thom

 

Follow up to my own, previous post - on my 98 GC, the o-ring for the check valve is indeed in the fuel pressure regulator but it is not serviceable. I know for sure because after replacing the fuel pump/regulator assembly I did an autopsy on the old one. The FPR is swaged together. I had to cut it apart to find the check valve. It's ashame to replace an entire assembly because a $.10 part is worn out.

 

I know this thread is "dated" but it addresses our hard starting 2001 XJ. I ordered online the check valve recommended in post #1. However, according to post #6 (see quote above) this is guaranteed to blow out the injectors and or fuel line after warm-up or shutdown. Has anyone who has installed such check valve comment if this solution is either a viable alternative or dangerous practice? Thank you.