BimmerJeeper

It's not a death wobble, but it's gotten worse than just a tiny vibration on the steering wheel.

The shocks are new, that's about it.
Otherwise, my suspension is totally original from 1998

What are the biggest culprits?

Can it be the trackbar? My trackbar is pretty bad, and I meant to replace that, but I ran into a dead end since the bolts were basically melted from rust) I even have a new trackbar and mount bracket, but don't know how to replace it.



What else?

kgm

All of them lead up to it so it seems? I'd look at doing the ZJ upgrade for your tie rod, do new TRE on your drag link, throw the new track bar in or have a shop install it, and then get an alignment.

Iron Rock Offroad sells a replacement double sheer Trackbar upper mount bracket, maybe look into that since it is the famed Barnacle, ha ha.

I'd look into maybe doing new lower control arms too, oem ones can be had for pretty cheap.

That trackbar bracket looks F-ed!!

Gunsmith

How are your tires? Are you sure?

SteveMongr

Vibes at that speed is usually tire or wheel issues. Aggravated by worn suspension parts.
That track bar bracket, chassis side, is so rusted it looks unsafe.

Cheddarnut

Knock that junk off, soak it in blaster and if it won't come off go get the grinder!

SteveMongr

Oh please, perhaps you do not know whom you are dealing with..
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/le...rinder-201436/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/blo...update-201471/

BimmerJeeper

I'll check my tire pressure tomorrow.

BimmerJeeper

I'll probably get a mechanic to replace the track bar, since I don't know how to remove the mounting bracket.
The bolts are large, and that means huge torque, and there is no room under there.

How epic of a project is replacing control arms? I assume the bushings get shot?
Can I get the mechanic to replace just the bushings?

Any other common culprits besides the track bar and lower control arms?
I am going to pour some money into the XJ this Spring.
The winter workhorse deserves it.

Cheddarnut

Stock parts are cheap enough and the best thing is to do it all at once. If you know the mechanic sometimes you can pre order the stuff and drop it off together. You will likely need the track bar, steering rack and a whole bunch of bushings from the look of those pics.

SteveMongr

What we are referring to by saying "check tires" has more to do with;
out of balance, a bent wheel or bent edge of wheel, a broken band in tire (feel all around tread of tire for any unevenness).

Control arms are fairly easy to replace, one at a time. All four arms should be replaced.
The bushings are not worth replacing in stock control arms. New arms comes with bushings and are inexpensive.
The upper bushings mounted on axle will be difficult.

You mention pouring money into it, my suggestion, keep your eye out for an XJ with minimal rust.

salad

You really don't have much experience with road salt, eh?

Those bolts - particularly the frame side - are a serious pain in the rectum. Even with a ****load of torque to break the free, they seize to the bushing just like the leaf springs. My LCA frame bolts I had to cut the heads and nuts off of, spread the mount, and pry out the remains.

My honest advice is to leave them alone until you have to deal with them. Control arm bushings on my rural-driven '99 were okay, I installed longer LCAs.

Check the wheel balance/straightness and steering first. That track bar has certaintly seen better days.


+1 not much further south one can find low-rust models. The track bar mount bracket concerns me. That photo shows about as much rust as my XJ and the frame is rotten under the cab.

BimmerJeeper

Stuff that people here claim is easy if often hard as hell.
So, if Salad says control arms are a PITA, then I'm not going near them.

I will first try to get the track bar replaced, and then go from there.
Has anyone ever removed the track bar & mounting bracket directly as one piece?
Is that a total nightmare to remove?

BimmerJeeper

Which bushings?
How do I know my steering rack is toast?

TheReaper

I'm having the same issue, minus some of the rusty. I just replaced my track bar and it was a pain. The axle side bolt seized to the inner sleeve of the bushing. After 2 days of PB, heat, prying, PB, hammer, beer, heat and PB... I finally bought a big cutting disc and turned my buffer into a grinder lol. I just replaced a completely shot wheel hub not long ago ( literally split in half when I pulled it off), now the track bar and I'm still getting highway wobble. Only happens around 50-55 and gets worse if I merge right (putting weight on the driver side).

I didn't have wobble long before doing the track bar so I don't think it ovaled the hole out. Kinda hard to tell on my 97 with no lift. All of the steering components are in the way. I'm going to try a new steering stabilizer next. I need to check the alignment but my work schedule doesn't comply well with shop hours

Cheddarnut

Admittedly a bit of speculation based on the rust around the track bar. It's not likely limited to the one component. I was thinking cheap stock control arms(includes bushings) track bar, then probably the sway bar bushings as well. Plus there is another pain in the butt bushing on the front diff( mentioned above). You might be able to rehab the rack with new heim joints or tie rod ends. I think the concern would be how bad is that rust and is it into the unibody frame rails. If it is it's probably best to do the minimum and try to sell. It's all worth doing if the rust isn't too bad and I won't say any of that is easy. I have a lot of busted knuckles and a full and thorough knowledge of swearing, most of it learned underneath my Cherokee.