BG44K is amazing stuff, we only carry techron and bg44k in our shop and have had NO compaints with it from ourselves or customers. I use it in my vehicles, and BG44K is one of the very few if not only one that does clean the valves as a fuel additive.

 

Fair enough....you sold me on it.

Any local retailers that sell it? Did a quick google search and it appears I may have to order online.....and more than one. Saw one guy selling 4 cans with a funnel for $54.

 

Make sure you use a funnel, it will and can ruin your paint if it makes contact.

Also, other shops that endorse it: Level10 Auto, Barrys Speed And Chrome, Deboers Auto, Local Volvo/Mercedes, Bobs Crossroad Service, etc.

Its not just our shop that swears by it. One can you will notice a difference, throw one in every 7.5k miles 3 times, than 14k mile intervals.

 

Sounds good...thx.

 

Diesel.....another question for ya which i think has been addressed elsewhere.....

CRC makes a t-body cleaner and a Mass Air cleaner. What's the real difference and which is safe to use on the IACV to give it a quick cleaning when i remove it from the t-body?

Thanks.

 

I dont recommend either, for tb or any sensor I would use either seafoam deep creep or a mild carb cleaner. CRC killed my IAC on my DD and brake cleaner killed it on my other jeep, had very good experiences with Seafoam Deep Creep on the new IAC and TB. Reason why I mentioned carb cleaner to is cause its alot milder than a brake cleaner. But when it comes down to it, Deep Creep is the way to go for sensor/tb cleaning.

 

Is Deep Creep available at like an Autozone? Is that a Seafoam product or something different?

 

Its seafoam, and my local Advanced has it.

 

Today's update.....

After work yesterday, I put in a bottle of the Chevron Techron and filled the XJ with about 12 gallons of premium. Drove about 75-80 miles and did notice a slightly smoother idle. Nothing huge, but noticeable. Also, no stalling to report.

I took the XJ in this morning to get an inspection and fresh Redline MT-90 in the trans, so I had them install my new Mopar fuel filter in as well.

So far, so good.

 

Update 8/19/10

Put another half tank of fuel in the XJ and another bottle of Chevron Techron. Idle seems a bit smoother......no stalling or hesitation to report.

Still feel a can of BG44K will be a good idea for a final "cleansing" of the system. Just need to order some now.

 

Threw some in a customers honda about a week ago, he came back last night to order 3 cans.

 

Now that's a GOOD salesman!

Quick question......just read a comment in another thread......if my vac tank is missing from the front bumper, would that affect the idle and driveability of the Jeep? I thought that tank merely affected HVAC and cruise control?

 

This blog on stalling has been very helpful as I'm currently suffering a "stalled and won't start" condition with my '99 Cherry-o. I won't disagree that there are some very good (but expensive) TB and Fuel System cleaners out there, but I want to add that I've been a faithful user of Marvel Mystery Oil in all of my vehicles since 1975. Adding four ounces per 10 gallons of gas keeps the system and the top-end clean and shiny, for example; when I pulled the heads from my '88 Ram with over 200K miles on it, the injector nozzles, piston tops and valve seals/seats looked as new as if they were from a fresh out-of-the-box set. I guess there's some magic in the "secret" ingredient (wintergreen oil - shhhh - I didn't tell you that). Anyway, my Cherry-o quit while driving last night and won't restart. I'm off to the garage to diagnose it but will probably begin with CPS, Cam sensor, Spark and other ignition related stuff. Feel free to adivise. Thanks guys - and sorry for the long blabber!

 

Glad my updates are helping. I always like to come across threads like this since they kinda monitor a problem and resolution.

Once one of my ebay items sells, I should have enough in Pa Pal to order some of the BG44K.......I'm really itching to get a can through my Jeep since I think it will make a huge difference.

 

I had no diagnostic codes to read due to my roadside attempts at restarting after stalling (disconnected and reconnected PCM last night). Towed it home this morning and performed a little bit of good old fashioned troubleshooting combined with data gathered from this (and several other Cherokee tech blogs). My first best solution was the Crankshaft position sensor (CPS = $100, Restarting after knuckle busting = priceless). In-spite of what a bear it was to replace, I'm thanking my lucky stars that it was the cause. I'm back in the saddle again....