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Smoked ANOTHER connector!

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Old Dec 5, 2018 | 11:28 PM
  #16  
djgrayxj's Avatar
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From: West Covina, Ca.
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Note from DJ
Dave sorry I missed your XJ information in your signature panel.
If you still need help post back; I think that I have figured out where your problem is.
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 05:02 AM
  #17  
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Old fart with a wrench
 
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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I've parked the XJ until it gets slightly warmer. I've a 73 yo fart who doesn't like to work outside in the cold any more than I have to. I'm going to have to check my repair on the C322 connector because the high brake light grounds thru that and I think I only fixed 5 wires there, not 6. When I was working on it, I was hiding from freezing rain under the hatch with a blue tarp covering the cargo area and didn't solder the wires because I couldn't get them hot enough, so I just crimp-spliced them and used shrink tubing for insulation and support. I used the trailer-tow module output connector body to fix the body harness and the wire gauges were quite different. I was splicing 20 ga into 16 ga.

I'm about ready to drive it up to my buddy's shop and tell him to fix it while I sit there and drink coffee! He fixed the broken wires in my WJ's driver's door in about 15 minutes! Have you seen how the FSM tells you to fix broken wires? You're supposed to strip 1" of insulation off both wires, twist them until the strands open up like a paintbrush, jam them together, retwist them until the joint is smooth, solder and cover with shrink tubing. That shortens the wires by a lot!

Last edited by dave1123; Dec 6, 2018 at 05:22 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:16 AM
  #18  
boxburn's Avatar
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From: United Kingdom
Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
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Originally Posted by dave1123
I've parked the XJ until it gets slightly warmer. I've a 73 yo fart who doesn't like to work outside in the cold any more than I have to. I'm going to have to check my repair on the C322 connector because the high brake light grounds thru that and I think I only fixed 5 wires there, not 6. When I was working on it, I was hiding from freezing rain under the hatch with a blue tarp covering the cargo area and didn't solder the wires because I couldn't get them hot enough, so I just crimp-spliced them and used shrink tubing for insulation and support. I used the trailer-tow module output connector body to fix the body harness and the wire gauges were quite different. I was splicing 20 ga into 16 ga.

I'm about ready to drive it up to my buddy's shop and tell him to fix it while I sit there and drink coffee! He fixed the broken wires in my WJ's driver's door in about 15 minutes! Have you seen how the FSM tells you to fix broken wires? You're supposed to strip 1" of insulation off both wires, twist them until the strands open up like a paintbrush, jam them together, retwist them until the joint is smooth, solder and cover with shrink tubing. That shortens the wires by a lot!
Especially when it's in a loom and you have one wire shorter than the rest. Normally depending on application I'd strip back about 10mm on each wire and push them together as mentioned.
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 11:59 AM
  #19  
dave1123's Avatar
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Old fart with a wrench
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by boxburn
Especially when it's in a loom and you have one wire shorter than the rest. Normally depending on application I'd strip back about 10mm on each wire and push them together as mentioned.
Not only short, but black and crispy copper! I DID put some solder flux on the wires when I crimped them and used a butane pipe torch to shrink the tubing. I hope that was enough. That's why I should let my buddy check my work as well. Not on this job, but I've had occasion to splice in a short section to make it long enough.
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